Incosistent Tumbler Engraving


I am trying to engrave some Yeti tumblers on my Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro with the LU2-10a laser module. I did several before this and the results were good and then I started trying to do these double sided ones and have run into an issue where inconsistently the engraving is shifted and not even the entire logo will have it happen. I also use air assist. The first one I did using these settings was perfect and has just gotten progressively worse since without changing anything.

The images are my current settings and an example of it doing it and not doing it on the same cup and my setup with the chuck rotary. I haven’t cleaned them so they look a little dirty but it illustrates what is happening.

Are you sure you’ve always used cross hatching? The dpi you are using should be sufficient with only bi-directional scan. I’d think cross hatching would aggravate any issues and be unnecessary…

Also assume the x axes is scanning from top to bottom or vice versa. The start of the graphic is on the left…?

The x axes seems to be losing it’s steps or location… Suspect this maybe the result of cross hatching.

Many times I find cross hatch more trouble than it’s worth… It has it’s applications… it also takes twice as long to run :face_with_spiral_eyes:

Suggest, instead of burning up mugs or other materials… take one that you’ve already wasted and put some kind of masking tape over the cup/mug… Run it a very low power, only enough to mark the tape… then you can see what it will look like when you do the real job…

I use this technique anytime I have expensive (or limited number) parts for the rotary…

Especially if I’m doing something with an object from a customer.

I buy black masking tape works with all of my lasers. the dpssl, co2 and fiber…

Good luck


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Yeah I have always used cross hatching for doing these tumblers, and did 5 perfectly before I started running into an issue. The only thing I have changed is where the cup attaches to the rotary being on the outside instead of the inside but then I still did 1 great with this setup before having an issue.

The x axis starts from the right in the towing logo and the left on the other one (if you are looking at the cup as seen in the images.

The black lines indicate Y axes directional rotation…

Just like to clarify if it’s track 1 arrow points to start of engraving. Make sense as it’s aligned there.

It’s not logical for track 2, since it would start out of alignment and find it’s way into alignment…

I’d try the tape option and suggest you are overdoing what you need to do with cross hatch… There are millions of these mugs out there done on a wheel rotary. These don’t handle cross hatch at all as they tend to slip… No cross hatch good results, half the job time… Of course it’s your mug business.


Yeah no it will start in your picture at the bottom and move toward the handle on the first pass and then on the cross hatch go from the top of the cup to the bottom.

Ok well I didn’t have any luck before with just the bidirectional but I will give it another go.

On my fiber, I seem to get the best, under certain circumstances using single direction… both of these options being off.

Have you disabled cross hatch?

Did you try the tape?


Thank you didnt know that existed

Lower cost than burning up mugs to throw out…

I use it a lot on my rotaries…


I just made my own rotary so it will be a big help on cost for tests

Very nice build… I always like seeing diy machines anyway…

Good luck


I ended up going to bi-directional and disabling crosshatch and have gotten good results so far. There is quite a bit more clean up to do but haven’t had a cup engraving fail.

Thanks for the help!

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