I’m pretty sure only whole integers are allowed in serial number. You could create a cave file though with your desired values. I believe most spreadsheets would allow for decimal level advancement.
I have 4 metal cases of drill bits holding numbered, lettered, decimal and imperial bits.
I measured some of the holes and on average the hole size measured between 0.17mm to 0.2mm larger than the bit
I don’t know how big your kerf is on your laser, but with the 0.06mm dot size on my laser. I think your holes might be too small.
Why not create a 40mm square and cut a 20mm hole to see how the 20mm bit fits in?
Have you thought about using a CSV (comma separated value) with the increment sizes you need?
As the CSV name suggests, using 10,5 might be a problem. I don’t know if LB has a search and replace feature with text, if it does you can then replace the periods with commas.
2 Likes
I confirm that the Kerf will have to be around (upwards) the values you mentioned (0.2).
I already did a first test on 4mm plywood and the drill bits go in if you force them a little. Therefore, 0.2 or slightly more should be enough for the drill bits to fit freely.
No, because I didn’t even realized the meaning of “CSV”. But I’ll investigate and consider that option! Thank you for yet another suggestion!
2 Likes
Kuth there is an easier way. Just ask ChatGp to draw what you want and import the result.
1 Like
This was a fun read. I just made my own bit holders last week. I’d encourage a feature request for specifically incremented holes since Copy Along Path doesn’t quite cut it.
We welcome suggestions on new features at https://lightburn.fider.io/ - we’d suggest you make a post there detailing the feature you wish to see. We use Fider to help us choose which features are most important for us to develop next.
I did mine in MillMage, but the same design tools apply.
I hope you post yours when it’s done!
6 Likes
Looks like someone does leather work too.
3 Likes
Thank you very much for the suggestion. I’ve never used chatgpt, but I have no doubt that it’s the easiest and fastest way to get the drawing I want.
I’ve never used chatgpt because I appreciate creativity, ingenuity, and discovery. AI certainly makes things easier, but in my personal opinion, it doesn’t add anything to us as rational beings.
Despite my personal opinion, I am very grateful for the suggestion, which, not in this case, but perhaps in another, will be useful to me.
For these relatively simple things, when I don’t want to bother, I buy them ready-made. It’s less tiring, and most of the time, these projects end up being more expensive than buying them ready-made.
Hi Jess!
It’s good to see that someone from the team read this topic.
As I mentioned before, it seems to me that what I want, which is apparently simple, can be much more complicated to design a tool for.
The small project is already designed. I’m in the phase of adjusting the ideal kerf for my laser so that it’s easy to handle the drill bits. However, this is something that is only done when I have time available.
Later, when the project is assembled and functional, I will post the idea in the request as you suggested. An idea described with images is much clearer. 
Here is the first cut that serves as a guide for the following adjustments.
3 Likes
A drill stand needs some slop because sometimes a drill shank will get a burr on it.
Positive Kerf = shrink the holes.
Negative kerf = open them up.
3 Likes
we file the burr off.
2 Likes
It’s finished!
Don’t tell anyone, but only after everything was assembled and glued did I realize that the holes in the second section were too tight and the drill bits don’t go all the way to the bottom. 
I don’t know where I went wrong, but convinced that everything was fine and eager to finish the job to show it off, when I went to put in some drill bits to demonstrate, I realized the mistake and will have to widen them, either with the drill bit itself or with a roll of sandpaper.
Thanks for the advice!
Indeed, sometimes that happens, but I usually clean it. Not only to fit it properly, but mainly to tighten it in the bushing correctly.
I would swear that’s true, but only when the holes are part of the inside of an object.
If you cut the holes separately from the outer object, it no longer works that way. And I don’t know if that’s exactly why the holes in the second division were too tight.
Since I have difficulty cutting 4mm plywood, I have to make the cut several times, so to avoid excessive burning I opted to create sub-layers. This interferes with the “optimization settings”. As such, I chose to make the holes in the first division first and only then the outer cut. I don’t remember how I did it in the second division, but if I did everything at once, exactly what you mentioned happened. The kerf ended up in the opposite direction to what was intended.
Returning now to the origin of the topic.
I hope I won’t be insulted for mentioning another software that I use occasionally when things get complicated.
I don’t consider it competition to LB, but probably to Millmage, since it’s an online 3D software. It’s Tinkercad.
I don’t master it (not even close), but my brother, in his own way, understands it. So I decided to give it a try, and although neither my brother nor I had ever worked with block-based programming before, after a few hours of trial and error we managed to draw the holes. The truth is that someone familiar with that software can draw the holes in a few minutes because the programming isn’t very complex. For ethical reasons only, I won’t post the programming, but I’ll show the drawing.
1 Like
Experience: What you get when you don’t get what you want.
1 Like