Is a lens just a lens

Ok, back in my photography career, all I owned were Canon L lenses. Supposed to have been better optics.

My new BMW 50 JPT, came with 2 lenses. A 110 and a 200 I believe. I want to get a 300 for more coverage. I know the thread is fine in the head of my laser, but how do you go about getting a lens?

Are they machine specific?

Just go out on Amazon and buy one?
I see a lot out there, but which one?

300mm lens choices

Inquiring minds need to know!


As far as I know these lenses are pretty distinct as far as mounting them…

I get mine from Cloud Ray.

This is for Opex lenses… This type is the last one I ordered and have been using it.

The F in the name is for flat field of focus … this link will probably more clear than me trying to explain it…

I have a Cloud Ray MP60 JPT M7 MOPA and 4 lenses…

You will have to calibrate the lens…

Good luck


Thanks Jack. I sent a message via FB to the rep that I bought the Laser from for her suggestions as well. Another question I’ll have will be is my tower tall enough to take advantage of a 300mm lens as well

It depends on your tower height, my tower is the standard 500mm, the focal length of my 300mm lens is 436mm from the work surface. There is room for 100mm tumblers etc, just.
But it is not tall enough to use the D80 rotary.

Hello M

Yeah, I’m at work right now, so I’m not sure how tall my tower is. One of the reasons I want a larger field of view is to be able to “mark” these. I thought these might be something to market in the wedding biz.
I thought maybe etching some wine glasses with my CO2, and Marking Flask with the Fiber. Wanted to add some more items to the site for folks to consider.

I’ve never done any so I thought I would throw caution to the wind. I do have a 200mm lens and I might get away with that one. We’ll see over the weekend.

8oz flask

I have done similar hip flasks like that with my 300mm lens without any problem

I’m kind of hoping my 200 will get the job done to be honest.

There is no reason that I can see why the 200 wouldn’t be more than good enough, the engravable area of those hip flasks is small enough

Yeah Moose. The rep from BWM mentioned that as well when I messaged her this a.m. Going to test drive it Sunday.

:+1: Have fun !

I purchased my machine with an F420mm (300mm square coverage), it’s column is 80cm.

You can see on mine, the column markings for various lenses. The top is the F425mm and is around 410mm on the scale… the scale starts about 15mm above the table of the machine, so it’s pretty close to the focal length… The lens in the photo is an F254mm.

This is the D80 rotary, I’ve run my PiBurn on it also… bigger mugs…

I would think it would be a pretty simple change to get a taller column or extension.


Ok… So here is what makes my head a hurt a bit. My thought process is to basically “mark” the flask. Similar to what I showed in another thread on a stainless steel tumbler. Pure black. Now I really don’t care if I get black, or just a nice etched / engraved look. This flask has both.

On the edges it’s black’sh. Down the middle it’s “etched” per se’. This was a 200 mm lens. How do you get just one look from an object that is slightly bowed? Can you?

My settings were 600 speed, 30 pwr, 30 freq. 2 layers. One +45 angle, the other -45. These are my “marking” settings on Stainless steel. I can’t figure out how one goes about marking out on the edges and in the middle and get a uniform look. These are 8oz Flask.

I left the flask where it’s at in case I can save it. If not, it’s all good. I don’t want to ruin 5 more if possible to get 1. I think my settings are close, but no cigar.

Talk to me…

It’s caused by a change in focus… You might have to focus for the middle area, so to speak…

A lot of black marking is done slightly out of focus.

Did you use cylinder correction?


Hello there ma man. Na, never thought about cylinder correction to be honest.
I’ll try to look into that.

The width of this flask is 93.2mm

I’m sure folks are engraving these things. I just need to figure out how.

Footnote: I’m closer now Jack. It’s all the same color. It looks “marked” -vs- etched or engraved, which I what I’m really after. Been a very long day here on the farm. Will do another one tomorrow and post the settings and results. Thanks for everything.

If H is the height of the entire engraving across the surface fo the mug… you want to focus closer to the middle…

Post a couple of our items :wink:


Thanks Jack. I need to watch that cylinder correction video a couple of times, but I’m really close. I think I have a sellable product now. My settings are 1000, 60 pwr, 300 Freq, .0300 LPI, single pass, no x-hatch.
Going for a straight up etch look -vs- black marking.