JPT E2 MOPA 100w
The parameters provided for creating colors in 304 stainless steel do not work and are incomplete for lightburn. Can someone help me set the parameters in lightburn for colors? Some people say that with the 11x11 lens it is not good for colors. It has to be 17x17 or 20x20. Does anyone know the parameters for 100w in light bun with 11x11 lens?
Estes parâmetros não funcionam .
There is no general set of parameters. You need to test. For example, ambient temperature plays an important role. You need to make sure to have exact the same temperature in the room for every test and the final project. It will take many tests to get consistent coloring.
The material itself also matters. Thickness, type, processing… So many factors that nobody can predict an outcome for you. You need to test yourself…
What map do you have? Can I see your results? and settings?
^What he said^
Assuming those lens sizes are centimeters? Yes, larger lens will help. You will need to experiment with very low power % with 100W machine. I seem to be able to get greens, blues, blacks all at 200 Q Pulse and go down to the low Q-Pulse for reds. Takes lots of experimenting. All SS is not created equal, even finger prints will make a difference.
Thank you very much for your tip. I’m waiting for the 17x17 lens I bought. I was told that it’s not possible to get solid colors with an 11x11cm lens. Please, what do you call it SS? Thank you.
I don’t even have a fiber laser. I just mentioned the basic principles and why settings from other users won’t help. You need to find your own.
SS = stainless steel…
You should be able to get colors with the smaller lens, just take some experimenting. The larger lens has a larger spot and longer focal length which is more forgiving, but if all I had was a 110x110 I would still try, maybe 1-2 mm defocus very low power.
I’ve done it with my F100mm, so it has nothing to do with lens length other than the settings are different… You can put the same amount of heat into the material faster with a shorter lens, but the idea is to reach a certain temperature.
I think it’s easier to deal with a longer lens in any case I can think of.
Most of us have found that many things affect the results of trying to oxidize metals for specific colors…
Such as, Lens, temperature, speed, power, spot size, pulses/mm (frequency), interval and q-pulse.
Here’s the original start of the thread… for anyone interested.
unfortunately the MOPA JPT 100w E2 laser is rubbish, it produces colors very badly. I’ve already tried doing it in different ways. It doesn’t make sense to me for a brand to sell something and not provide color parameters. I really don’t recommend buying JPT MOPA. They are a fraud. They say to change the lens, they say to remove the focus a little, but nothing works.
Colored stainless is an art, takes lots of trial and error. Lots of time in the saddle. Lots of understanding of the different types, thicknesses, and finishes of the metal. Some people buy MOPA’s expecting to do awesome colors right out of the box without putting in the time and effort. Some people seem to get frustrated when this doesn’t happen and blame the laser. The JPT M7 MOPA is a solid laser source and it does exactly what it is supposed to. Rest is up to the user.
Soon a manufacturer will emerge that will supply the parameters. Then, when JPT sees that it is losing customers, it will start supplying them.
To be fair, JPT manufactures the laser source. A lot of the ready to go marking machines sold as “JPT” are put together by 3rd parties, presumably using a JPT source, but not actually sold by JPT. A “Chinese guy” up-selling you an additional lense based on sketchy logic is certainly not from the $3.1B publicly traded Shenzhen JPT Opto-Electronics Co., Ltd
To get to your actual question, if you don’t have tens or even hundreds of material tests to get decent colors, your not doing it right. For a very comprehensive overview of color hunting, look at this video/playlist. tl;dr is that the thin film colors are very fickle, and hard to get consistently.
Amen to that.
If it were something reliable and of quality it would be mathematical and not trial and error.
Really they are… most of us don’t know enough to figure out, mathematically what settings to use. The math involved is not trivial.
Metals oxidize at known temperatures. This is stainless steel, no type mentioned.
Take the number of pulses/mm using the average power and with the metals heat conductivity coefficient it should give you a temperature … Don’t forget to use ambient temperature, thickness and time. How long and how much energy is induced into the material. So speed/interval are also important… I’ve probably left out some variable already.
I’m surprised no one has an on-line calculator… But this should put you in the ballpark.
Most of us find it’s quicker to do trail and error jobs to determine these settings.
If you look at the bottom of the chart, most of these can vary by as little as 9 degrees… Everything has to be consistent to produce these reliably.
I have a 60W and a spreadsheet that gives me pulses/mm depending on other variables. Helps, but isn’t perfect.
When it’s not doing what I want I start looking at the power applied associated with pulse/mm.
If you build a calculator, let us know, we’d all love it.
Good luck
