Kudos to whomever mentioned Zinsser 1.2.3 spray primer for white tiles

That was a nice mention. Definitely darker black than the standard rustoleum version using both my CO2 and diode laser and actually my Eleksmaker could never get the Rustoleum white primer to fuse…could barely get it to burn even at 600mm/m and 90 power.

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How do you clean it off the tile afterward? I think that’s Shellac based so Denatured Alcohol should work, but is it as fast to remove as the Rust-Oleum 2X with Lacquer thinner?
Got any pics or exposure details?

I can get pics later. I still use thinner…but might try denatured as I have both. I find it a bit easier to remove than Rustoleum.


This is on white tile running on a 50 watt CO2 laser with a 2.5 inch lens at 55/16.5 @ 290 DPI

Thanks! That’s Glazed White Tile? 55mm/min?

Yep glazed tile from Lowe’s…55mm/min at 15.5% power on a 50watt co2.

Great! Thanks! I’ve got a can coming in, I’ll give it a try!


I did a little experiment with tiles the ones on the left wee done with Rust-Oleum XX flat white spray paint. The paint was removed with acetone.
The two on the right are are with Zinsser Bull’s Eye Water-Base prime & Seale Interior paint. I painted a single layer with cheap paint brush. I used the same settings on all four tiles. It washed off with hot soapy water and a scrub brush…

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Huh…never thought about the brush on water based version. Sure is nicer than using lacquer thinner for sure. I use the spray version which has to use thinner but now I will try the water based.
Cool.

I would like to see the Grand Poobah of NWT weight in on this.
It looks very promising though.

I will add this paint also fuses with a slightly thicker black surface which on a CO2 laser is great.
The standard or previous paint was or should say fused a thinner surface at any setting. Probably fine for diodes but the CO2 imho was always sketchy as the paint fused thin and as anyone knows the output of a CO2 sealed gas laser is a bit unstable on the extreme low end of power. Which is where you run them to do NWT. Diodes are far more stable. I would always get slightly different black shades due to any minor power density changes even with a dialed in and level bed.
Not so with this paint….and does not burn through as easily as the rust oleum. Again more an issue on a CO2 I think than a diode.

PS: 80 Watt CO2 laser…

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Who is the Grand Poobah of NWT?

Nicky Norton.
He’s on here sometimes.

Ah, I see…

If you wait for a leader you are destined to follow. You don’t need a grand Pooba…you need to try it for yourself and decide. Or be satisfied to follow. Nothing against Norton but his results are his results not yours.
Many of us like myself have been doing this for a while…I know it works better than the Paint Norton uses because I did not wait for someone else to determine that for me. I bought some and tried it myself. I made the decision myself…for me it is better in most applications. Nortons “opinion” may differ…or it may not but it is his opinion. Yours may differ…may not. Only you can decide by testing.
Be the sheep or the shepherd…your choice.

I have been laser engraving for four years now but only doing tiles for 7+ months. I started without any paint then I heard of the NWT and it worked OK. But I hated the solvent part of it so I did some research. I looked up the data sheets for a more than a few paints and primers and came across this one, with TiO2 as it’s only pigment : https://www.rustoleum.com/-/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Documents/RustoleumUSA/TDS/English/CBG/Zinsser/BEY123-01_Bulls_Eye_1-2-3_Water-based_Primer_TDS.ashx


These were done last spring without paint, vaporized glaze…

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Never thought to try without paint. :+1:

70/60/254 on an 80 Watt…

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