Despite having my C02 80Watt laser for a number of years, I have only recently begun using it regularly thanks to my new job as they found out I have a sizeable machine. One task is to engrave the company logo on to microphones as we hire them out and they have used labels/stickers up until now which tend to be removed and ultimately stolen. Whilst this has been easy (as most microphone bodies are painted/powder coated), a recent batch of Rode NT5s are too shiny to engrave.
I have found a couple of products: Cermark and Laserbond. Also a Thermark brand and they seem expensive ($120 AU), not to mention tricky to obtain in Australia (ordered from one place online who cancelled my order 20 mins later). I am working on the boss buying a can, but for my own personal line of thinking, are there other more DIY techniques? Or is the official spray the only way?
I don’t even need the logo to be black, actually the existing engraving on the microphones is brown, so how does one achieve this?
I’ve seen comments about using Dry Moly Lube, but then found countering websites that state to never do that as it can release sulfuric acid during the engraving process and wreck your machine. Places like Repco and car part places tend to sell this by CRC. Is this any good? Is it a definite no no?
I then saw a comment about using a sharpie?
Also mustard… (wholegrain or old english? )
No one really goes into the settings aka power and speed, or is this purely trial and error?
My current setup is a Omnisign Pro 2000, 80watt C02 laser running the Ruida 6445S controller. (have recently purchased a U axis driver and will be setting that up soon too!)
In fact, even with a commercial marking product, you must experiment to find the best settings for your laser on your materials.
Which will require a sacrificial microphone.
You can reduce the body count by practicing on “similar” anodized / coated / painted dummy parts. However, not all coatings are the same, not all shapes conduct heat equally, and whatever, so expect plenty of tweaks along the way.
What is the likelihood of creating acid rain from laser engraving my work logo (30mm x 8mm) on to 10 microphones? Is there any direct health risks/risk to laser?
I like the idea of the moly lube, not only for the cost, but because it’s not as dark as cermark. Im using it on shiny microphones and having a dark black logo might be a bit ho hum.
Read the first link… not a chemist, but I understand simple reactions and he seems to be correct…
I don’t think knowledge of something makes it less dangerous and in fact may help safeguard yourself.
How much are you going to be doing and how much does this produce to be a danger…
Read the link where the content information originated and they don’t recommend you eat it or breath it or it’s fumes… Wonder if the alcohol and propane isn’t as toxic
The facts are that when you lase anything, it’s not a good idea to breath it… I can attest to using a machine on vinyl and it’s results…
This was a $20k or $30k laser, before they used it on vinyl…
People have used mustard, but I haven’t used anything but LBT100 and TiO2 for tiles, variations of the Norton Tile Method… never tried TiO2 for marking metal…
I’m aware of the vinyl thing. I had a friend ask if i can engrave a logo on to a vinyl record. I was about to do it and then googled settings. To find post after post of “DONT DO IT” But with this moly lube I keep seeing the one post only, and from a place who sells the cermark stuff. So I am taking it with a grain of salt.
I have the extraction tube for laser running outside and each piece to engrave is small/short to do.
Here is an off the wall thought. Years ago (Early 90’s and before the inexpensive lasers) we made some stainless parts and wanted to mark our logo on them, We got a device called Etch-O-Matic. The bad news is back then we used a typewriter to make the template, The good news is it was a very cheap way to make a permanent mark on metal. Took only about 3 seconds to make the mark. Still they are still in business, might be worth checking it out.
I always wanted to try but didn’t get to it yet:
At the Brewster angle 50% of the beam energy is absorbed even by shiny surfaces. For round objects it should be very easy to achieve this.