Burning and cutting along the X is fine. sounds sweet, but after a couple of weeks of use, it started making a funny noise and juddering when going along Y.
It only makes the noise when the laser is on - i.e when I click ‘Frame’ (To the the wood in the right place), it’s fine.
It also sounds like the juddering is coming from the laser module itself.
I found that the juddering stops while I hold down the frame, so I resorted to clamping the setup to my baseboard, and put a lump hammer on the control box. This works for the moment, but obviously isn’t ideal, as it triggers the alarm anyway randomly.
It got to the point where the judder was setting off the movement alarm, hence the extreme measures.
Any idea on what I should be checking?
(Laser = Ortur Laser Master 2 Pro S2 LF)
On a side-note - When the movement alarm DOES go off, Is there a way to continue the cut? I tried clearing the error in the console, but the console doesn’t respond when a cut is in progress, and the only way I’ve found around it, is to press ‘stop’ and have an educated guess as to which bits have already been done and how many passes. I feel like theres a command or button I’ve missed.
One thing may be the power supply. Since you say it ONLY happens when the laser is on, that might mean that the power supply voltage is dropping enough when the laser is on the causing the stutter in a weaker axis. Make sure that the stepper and belt pulleys are tight, and not loose. The Y axis might be loaded down too much due to misalignment as well, compounded by a voltage / current drop when you turn on the laser. I’m sure there may be other reasons for this… Did you check the help forums for this laser?
Power makes sense, actually - The laser cuts less well on the y-axis - Even when I orient the grain along that axis.
I did have a search on the forums for the juddering and couldn’t really find anything, but your mention of power has given me another research point - Many thanks
I was having issues that seemed to be power related (but not the same as yours) and Gil suggested replacing the power brick. This is the one I ended up with and haven’t had any problems since (I have an OLM2 Pro S1). My personal opinion is that the 2-amp power supplies are just on the edge of being able to get the job done.
So Just had a quick gander at the machine -
Max luminosity: 5500mW
Max input 2A
If i understand the electronics right, Once I put a 12v input with at least 5.5W into the machine, The amps don’t matter as the laser and machine will draw whatver amps they need?
Correct, the machine will draw whatever current it needs out of the power supply, Except the 5.5W is luminosity and you haven’t considered the motors. The power brick has to power both.
The upside is that you can calculate Watts = Volts x Amps
Watts (output: Luminosity & Motor torque) = Volts x Amps (power supply input) x some factor of loss.
I would arbitrarily select a number well below One for the factor of loss (0.5 perhaps) for the calculation to select a power supply that was rated higher than needed in the interests of increased stability.
You could also just go for a power supply that offers more Watts and Amps than the original. Keep the voltage the same though.
Thanks John.
Was finding it a bit tricky to find a 24v that had more than 2A, so I got a variable power thingy, where I can change all 3 values. (It’ll be used for other stuff aswell, but this is a decent excuse to splurge)
If you bought a bench supply it will likely have excellent noise filtering for stray interference and should out-muscle the typical brick by a long way.
