Good evening,
My laser is a Chinese KT6090R, 80watt with Ruida 6445G
I have a problem with my laser.
This is going on:
when i turn my laser on, the laser head moves home: right back.
After homing the laser head moves to the left back.
Do you know what the problem is?
Thanks in advance.
Groeten uit Holland.
Ben van Niersen
Generally after homing the machine will move to the ‘origin’ that was set previously.
When it’s done moving check out the display and note the X, Y positions.
If it’s homed properly these will show a number. If it’s not 0, 0 then it has moved from home.
Use the buttons to move it to location 0, 0 and press the ‘origin’ button on the controller to set this a the ‘origin’.
If you reset it, it should home and stay there…
thanks, i hope it is that easy.
me too !
It is that easy!! Thank you very much.
Can i ask you another question?
The meaning of life?
Sure…
The meaning of life…way to difficult.
If i move my laserhead to the left, it slows down before it hits the end (900).
When i turn my laser on the laser head “smashes” in to the right back corner, the limit switch is oke.
It happens only at startup.
Is there anything i can do?
Mine goes back right every time i turn it on. Home is top right, but I have my origin set for top left. Move it to where ever you want and hit origin on the keypad, then hit the reset. If it homes and then goes to your new origin, that’s all it is.
If it’s crashing back right, check your limit switches via the diagnostics on the keypad.
oke, thanks, i will.
If it fails to home, it will display max values in the X, Y and Z positions on the console window.
If it’s not showing max values, then it thinks it’s homing properly.
If it is homing properly, then…
Check the controllers ‘homing’ speed… ‘Edit → Machine Settings → Vendor Settings’
If homing speed is too high, it might not be able to stop. This is how fast the head/gantry move to ‘find’ the home switch.
You can watch them ‘live’ via the LEDs on the controller at any time. The controller only ‘sees’ them when it’s ‘booting’.
The ‘standard’ sequence is to move to the switch at the ‘homing’ speed and once the switch is contacted, it backs off and more slowly approaches the switch a second time to get a more accurate position. It will light, go out then light again for a homing cycle.
thanks again, i will have a look at it.
I always forget about the LED’s on the controller. Min’s buried so that I have to practically stand on my head to see them. I just go to the diagnostics screen on the controller. Then I can manually activate the switches and watch the indicator independent of moving the head. The square proximity switches should have LED indicators in the top as well.
Yep, mine turn orange too when active. Since I replaced the head, I had to move the X limits to a new location.
It is pretty obvious in the new location when active… 
If you look at the hardware you can watch them respond in ‘real time’ during the boot. Can’t do that with the console…
Metal will trip them. I thought it was only steel and such, but the aluminum finger on my head mount does it as well. It does have to be close. Too much gap and they never activate.
No it doesn’t…
These are ‘hall effect’ switches and only work with Ferris metals. The ‘effect’ depends on the existing magnetic field (in the switch) being ‘bent’ by the metal intrusion within the field…
What it’s detecting is not aluminum.
This is an example… The magnet is visible with its S & N ends, the little yellow block is the hall effect device. The metal ‘cog’ teeth are detected by the interruption of the magnetic field from the magnet, sensed by the Hall Effect device.
You can generally flip the magnet around and ‘sense’ the ‘notches’… They also are in the very best keyboards… if you can find one…
That’s what I thought, but it’s picking up something. If it’s the metal screws, they are over an inch away.
You can bet there’s Ferris metal somewhere…
I use the metal in the bearing mount itself.
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