400x400mm which results in 350x350mm usable which in reality, due to the limitations of the machine, results in X-350 x Y-320 (if I remember correctly)
I know that some of my texts are long and… probably the translation is not the best. (This is an excuse not to mention that some of you read what I wrote earlier diagonally) 
I’m joking!!!
What I intend to use the table for is essentially this:
What about using ‘Tabs’…in the settings? If they are placed correctly it should prevent Lifting, Flying away etc.
The material could be secured around the perimeter with ‘Masking tape’ which is low cost and easy to remove.
The tabs could then be cut using no air assist…or with a sharp modeling knife.
This is a smart approach. Smart because I also remembered and tried but it didn’t work 100% 
In the case of thin material, this will work in most cases, but you need to “guess” where the material will lift to place a “tab” there. Otherwise, if the material lifts more than 2mm (height between the UV protection and the material), the protection touches the lifted material and either drags the entire material or, if the material is fixed, tears or damages the material in some way. That’s why I want these types of materials (very thin and very light) to remain “attached” to the honeycomb. (maybe with some “kind of vacuum”)
In the case of K-line, which is a “thick” material (5 to 6 mm currently), the problem is different. In addition to the issue of the height of the protection to the material, it continues to be a problem that in this case is even worse because to try to locate the center of focus in the middle of the thickness of the material I have to reduce the distance of the protection to the material from 2mm to about 0.5mm. . I have already come to the conclusion that my machine is not suitable for this type of thickness and I am just trying to find a workaround or some kind of miracle that results in an acceptable cut.
But going back to the issue of tabs in K-line, I believe it works better because it won’t lift like thin and light material.
In the file I attached somewhere (probably in the other topic) you can see that there are tabs in the sub layer. The idea is to make the complete cut (without tabs) on one side, turn the material over and make the cut with tabs again. This way I could have much thinner tabs (in terms of thickness) than tabs with the same thickness as the material.
Thank you very much for the approach, it is not new to me but it allows me to share the result of the experience I obtained. 
Here is the link to the file in the other topic
Thanks Kuth the issue is much clearer now!
It does seem like the machine type is a problem for this application. If it is a profitable aplication and long term, it would save a lot of time and materials to change machine and you would still be able to do the work that the current machine can do. You already know this of course!
If it were me! I would save up the difference in price between what I want and the selling price of what I have…and do alternative work in the meantime.
A quick fix or workaround still leaves you at a disadvantage…in the long term.
It will still be interesting to think of this problem and see if a solution can be found.
Yes, I completely agree.
I will have to understand how far I can go with the laser machine and limit myself to that, but exploring the limitations as much as possible.
scotch tape on the face, masking tape or neodymium magnets, if your honeycomb is made of aluminum, place a sheet of iron or steel underneath and take large and flat magnets, be careful with neodymium magnets, they can be dangerous and break a finger! Depending on their size they will magnetize through the 22mm of the honeycomb.
22mm is amazing, So if you set a metal shape into a jig (flush to the jug surface) , you could set the magnets below the jig and with a strong magnet the jig wont move.
How are strong magnets with a laser module/components passing in close proximity to the field.
This is a cool idea to stick a jig to the honeycomb.
This is a pretty very good question!!!
How magnetic fields interfere with electronics? I think this is a theme to be discussed in other tread.
Thank you for the insight @Ganitta28
No worries, the light does not interfere with a magnetic field, and 100% of the laser modules are made of aluminum! So no attraction with the laser head.
With the materials (metals in this case) I know that the interference is null or close to it. It only has to do with the electronics that are normally found on top of the laser module. Magnetic fields can interfere with electronics, to what extent in the case of these modules I don’t know. 
It’s not the magnets of Magneto in Marvel either, seriously what bad faith, we are not in 1930 anymore, electronics are generally shielded, of course the metal ones play the role of Faraday cage, and plastic and aluminum are paramagnetic or non-magnetic…This critical spirit always, try rather to bring solutions than to criticize in a paranoid way, it is much more constructive for everyone and it saves time. These lovers are not on the integral circuit but at very good distances, 3 years that I use this and that it works 
This fine mesh is flame retardant I hope as there are flames below the cut materials at times.
Thanks for the clarification.
My English isn’t the best and the Google translation sounds bad. That’s why I didn’t understand everything exactly, but I understood the essentials (I think) basically that no metal bridge will appear on the balcony of your house and that current electronics are isolated from magnetic fields. I also noticed that you have been using this system for a few years now.
Fortunately. The discussion of magnetic influence on electronics may be short but it is always useful.
I think you copied the wrong sentence, because it is not complete.
But in response to your comment, the mesh is not flame retardant. The mesh I intend to assemble is metal and its function will be to prevent small pieces (below the size of the honeycomb holes) that are cut, from being sucked up by the fan and projected outside.
The issue of the possibility of fire due to residue is real, and that is why I have a mini vacuum cleaner next to the machine that I use to clean the honeycomb almost every job. In addition, the machine is never left working alone for long periods of time. Precisely because of this, I work so little with the machine. When I do something on the laser machine, I rarely do anything else at home.
Thank you for your concern and for your attention.
Time has been short to dedicate myself to the laser.
Here I share the file that will create the fan box that will be mounted under the table to extract fumes and help fix light materials to the table.
Design created in Boxes.Py and then adjusted to my needs.
Ignore cut settings as I have not yet done material testing on 3.6mm plywood (a little over 1/8 inch)
CaixaVent6_3mm.lbrn2 (162.4 KB)
The larger piece is to be cut in two stages. Something I’m going to try for the first time.
Yes, adventures are with me. It is supposedly something easy to do, but the origin of this topic proves that it is not always like that when you do not have accumulated experience.