LightBurn Camera Features - what accuracy does it offer?

Good afternoon, I looked for this answer in other posts but I couldn’t find it.

My first question is: lightburn doesn’t male automatic cut registration/alignment using camera detectable registration marks, right? (like ruida’s sv300 camera does in RD Works, for example)

My second question: with Ligthburn’s official camera, with 4k resolution, what precision can I get on a 60x40cm table?

Thank you for the help

Correct. The registration marks are used in Print and Cut. The best accuracy for working with registration marks can be obtained by jogging the laser head (in the Laser window in LightBurn) then, when you’re fairly close, pulsing the laser to make a mark on the workpiece. This small mark allows you to see how far away your mark is from the registration mark. Here, the Camera isn’t even used.

This really depends on how you’ve chosen to define precision and how careful you are with the Calibration and Alignment.

The Math that drives the Camera calibration is quite good. The Math that drives the Camera alignment (aligning it to the bed) is also quite good. The operator is the most significant contributor to inaccuracy with one exception.

Putting a piece of inch thick material on the bed of the laser engraver will make a new top surface. If the camera is viewing at 30 degrees from the horizontal (towards the top surface) something interesting happens. With the same alignment in place, the top surface moved toward the camera, and the calibrated, aligned camera sees it as closer to the operator when it is not. Lowering the laser bed, to bring the top of the material back into plane and location/alignment, moves the bed away from the camera, the Aligned camera now sees the bed as further away from the user, which it isn’t.

Now, with all that said…

If you align the laser to the alignment targets with a top surface that is the same elevation as your (future) work or your (future) work holding jig and pulse the laser power supply and then jog the laser closer, and then pulse the laser supply and repeat this until you’re right in the middle of the registration mark. Depending on how light your lines are you should be able to get it into the middle of the last line. If the laser head is vertical you should be able to split a line that is less than .020" thick with a laser pulse mark. So, I’ll hesitantly suggest .010", if you painstakingly jog, pulse and acquire 4 perfectly located targets and repeat this for the two registration marks on the project.

If you move the camera the smallest amount when eyeballing, jogging the laser, closing the lid, firing the laser, opening the lid and eventually acquiring four alignment targets and then the two on the workpiece or jig, the error is introduced and the opportunity for high precision is lost this time.

Thinking about the aligned camera 30 degrees from the horizontal, and with it ‘seeing the work area’ as straight-on, then bumping the camera 1 degree toward perpendicular, would seem to shift the image from straight-on by 1.5 to 2 degrees. When a camera is positioned at a fairly far angle from straight-on (like 60 degrees from vertical), angular misalignment will be exaggerated.

Having that view appear to be 2 degrees off of straight overhead, is 1/4" out, one foot away.

This is really in your hands. What do you want to do with the precision?

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