My Longer B1 40 is no better than my Longer ray5 10w
I did a material test. To cut 3mm basswood 300mm @100% power. I can do that on my Ray5 10.
There’s barely 2 hours on this laser
In the console window enter $$ then look for the $30 value. Typically it is 1,000, but could be something else. Then Go to Device Settings> Basic Settings tab and verify that S-Value Max is the same as $30. It it isn’t, make the change to S-Value max so that both match. Also, verify that your speed is mm/min, not mm/sec or any other option.
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When finished with everything @thelmuth said, then research what your focus point really is. They are not always exactly what the manufacturer recommends.
It is commonly thought that a 40w laser is 4x more powerful than a 10w laser. This is true, but it cannot cut 4x better. The dot at focus is much larger, so that 40w is spread out over a larger area. So the effective cutting power is not 4x that of a 10w.
I have both a 10w and a 40w/20w laser. In my rough estimate from experience, the 20w cuts 60% better than the 10w, and the 40w cuts 60% better than the 20w.
All that said, my 10w cuts 3mm using 800mm/m, 80% pwr, 5 passes. The 20w does it at 1200mm/m and the 40w does it at 2400mm/m, 90% pwr, and 6 passes. In all cases, the part falls free 99% of the time.
I hope this gives you some guidelines that help.
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You have some tough wood. I cut 3.5mm with my 10w at 385mm/m at 100% in 1 pass. But I use cheap 3 layer underlayment.
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Ha, ha. Just regular Baltic Birch from Amazon.
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Ditto That.
I cut 3mm basswood ply from Amazon @ 300mm/m @80% power on my 10w laser in one pass.
Surprisingly, I found that 300mm/m @80% power takes less time than doing 800mm/m, 80% power with 5 passes. In other words - slower is faster
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Not really. 1/3 the speed and 1/5 the distance.
My settings get me 100% cut through. Even when there is a fiberglass stringer in the wood.
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My settings does too.
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