Looks like perforation, but not

I already saw the two topics here but neither helps.
Using an Omtech 60W to cut puzzles.
Two layers only, one for inside puzzle pieces, one for perimeter; both at 2300 mm/m 60% for 3mm basswood
Everything was set up, tested, working fine. Have done a dozen in past few months. LB file was not changed (that I know of).
Suddenly tonight, _most but not all the cut lines _look like perforation mode is on but definitely not from layer/cut settings.
Machine itself _was reset a few times in interim. (PWM true/false makes no difference here.)
Lens seems ok.
Belts seem tensioned right and I can’t force slop in the head manually that I can detect. (I would think that a loose belt pully on the motor would allow detectable slop in the head just like backlash issues.)
Carefully focused.
Machine power supply “mA” or “Laser on” or ‘laser firing icon’ does not flicker at all during a line-run that my eyes can detect.
This machine has never exhibited similar problems even through 1/4" acrylic. I barely have 10 operating hours on it.

Uploaded photos now; you can see that the effect goes through the straights _and curves.

(You’re looking at the backside of the wood and the burning is not the issue here…)

(Not suggesting this is a LB issue, just asking for advice.)
Any direction for me to start?




Show a picture of your results as well as a screenshot of your Cut settings editor page for the affected layer.

Uploaded two photos and screenshots. Thank you.

You have Tabs / Bridges enabled

Is that the backside? Slow it down a bit. I cut my 3mm at 20mm/s at 50%

Yes. I definitely have tabs. Set manually. They work fine.
The “perforation” was _not showing the last few puzzles I did a month ago with the same file.

These settings were working perfectly the last few puzzles a month ago. Believe me, they cut fine.
It’s the “perforation” that suddenly showed up.
Material has not changed.

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I will however clear the tabs and try again tommorow if you truly feel they are connected here… but obligated to pint out that this affects the puzzle perimiter as well, which has no tabs!

Slow down some, like Jeff said above. You’re going almost twice as fast as he does, although you’re running with a bit more power.

The weather has changed. How material cuts can change from day to day depending on temperature and humidity. There is no one setting for all time. If something doesn’t work, adjust.
It could also be that your lens or mirrors need to be cleaned.

No, I just saw the tabs enabled and thought that was your concern. i didn’t know you placed them intentionally.

I can agree that’s true, and deep. But… Everything is set up in my temperate basement, nothing changed far as I know, and the sudden obvious effect is just too glaring. Obviously something major changed, like a Co2 power drop despite the PSU reading etc, but where do I start short of a complete bench checkup with multimeter taps etc!
(I’m using 35-40 PSI for those cuts btw, and I had the speed higher originally but still mostly cut through easy; just _dropped it to 2300 mm/m for surety as some off the basswood had sketchy areas.)

IDK, I still think you’re running too fast. Go ahead and clean everything and try again. If it is something going bad it will become more evident over time.

I’ve also seen different results in the same batch of plywood. It’s not always consistant.

Is it possible that it is not basswood but birch plywood? What you are showing looks like symptoms from less good birch plywood.

It is possible the CO₂ tube stopped resonating in what’s called TEM00 mode and no longer produces a nice round beam that can be properly focused.

This post gives the test procedure with a pointer to a lengthy discussion of what it all means:

If the test at the tube exit doesn’t produce a round spot, then you’re in line for a new tube.

Will definitely check!

Attached a photo now of pulse tests at the first mirror.
Left is thin cardboard, right paper. From as fast as could physically cycle the button to about 1/4 - 1/3 second (where the paper caught fire :grimacing:)

Looks like a consistent round dot to _me…
Also, watched the tube itself on 1-3 second fires and at least to my eyes can see no flickering. (First time I ever did that; nice pretty color!)

I’ll be checking the lens a second time later as I read that even if looks clean the coating might be missing which can ruin it. (Ordered a new lens anyway just in case.)

Thanks folks for all your help. I’ll keep you updated.

Checked my Amazon order and packaging; Unless they lie, it’s basswood.
On the other hand, I’ve done lots of woodworking for forty years including furniture building and… damn if it _doesn’t look like birch veneer… Hmmm.

The Ruida controller lets you set a pulse duration at the machine console:

Better control, less charring, room for more blood in your caffeine stream. :coffee:

However, the scorches on the left look like they have a distinct ring around the central spot. Use timed pulses for less charring and, if the ring persists, it’s definitely a Bad Sign™.

…same here, but I’ve experienced variations in all forms :wink:

Ok.
Set the laser pulse to 20ms 50% and did 5 pulses white sticker paper at the first mirror opening. See photo. Darker larger pulse is 40ms. Definitely did not go through paper at all on the 20ms pulses.

Yet, other photos show a 50mm shape that just cut through 3mm basswood/birch at 1800mm/m, 40%min-50%max, with no sign of the perforation effect. Kerf looks normal also before I popped it out.


Any of this give further direction?

BTW, I confirmed right off the controller that the laser time itself is _less than 15 hours!!
For a tube that is rated for 1000-10k hours that seems crazy to fail?
And I’d think logically that if it can’t breach paper 5-10mm from the laser source then it would barely mark the basswood? (Yes, I understand the lens focuses it.)

And just to be clear, a pulse on focused material on the bed _does produce a pinhole.