Please help with following item: Can Creality Falcon A1 10W deal power wise with 20W optical module? In addition, can Atomstack E18 handle the 48W module on the same considerations? I will use a power source with enough power in each case.
If you’re hotwiring a power supply with a higher ampere rating, then the only consideration will be the physical size of the laser head.
If it’s larger, then you must reduce the X and Y axis maximum travel limit correspondingly. Failing to do so will allow the controller to smash the laser head into the rails at the far end of its travel.
Make sure that the new laser head does not obstruct the home switches and that they trigger correctly in the (possibly new) home position. This may require relocating the switches to clear the (new) mechanical parts.
Ensure the cables don’t snag on anything as the head moves and they have enough slack to prevent abrupt bends at the head’s travel limits.
With all that set up, run a focus ramp test to verify the new focus point, because it will certainly be different.
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Thank you very much ednisley. I consider your answer spot on and much more! Though, I will ask more specific, because frying my MB is the last thing I would like to see. Is there any component or traces on motherboard supposed to be exposed to deadly wattages/overloads? I know that in Atomstack E18 case I replace 3.5A module with 6.3 A module, number of wires powering the laser head being the same.
E18 is part of a family of lasers that goes up to 48W, while Creality Falcon A1 10W has a bigger brother Creality Falcon A1 Pro 20W.
To the best of my admittedly limited knowledge, the laser head includes the diode driver circuitry, so the high current switching occurs inside it.
If both the laser head and the power supply plug into the controller PCB, then the laser head connector will should have wide copper traces from the power connector to handle whatever current the highest-power head requires.
If you’re adding an alien high-power laser head not in the manufacturer’s standard offerings, then it’s up to you to understand the circuitry and determine whether it will work.
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Thanks again! Than, if admittedly (but not necessary) I would try to double the traces between power connector and laser head power terminals of connector with hard wires, the last critical risk would be eliminated.??
IMO, you’re looking for trouble in all the wrong places. 
The most likely point of failure will be the cable between the controller and the laser head. The PVC insulation found in (nearly all?) such cables pretty much guarantees it bends too sharply at points where it meets connectors or other mechanical anchors, so the wires eventually break inside the cable.
The lens protector will collect soot / fumes and, when the mess cooks into a solid layer, crack due to overheating. Routine cleaning can prevent that, but the keyword is routine.
Then there’s laser diode heat death (or, at least, exhaustion) due to inadequate airflow through the heatsink, compounded by a buildup of dust and fuzz in the inadequate air channels. Cleaning the inside of the heatsink may be impossible, but a small bottle brush may help.
Basically: Don’t worry, be happy, watch for actual problems. 
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I’m not necessarily looking for troubles (where they aren’t); I just have not enough experience. So thanks a lot for putting things right! What I can tell you - somehow subject related - Is that I have worked in automotive and have witnessed how gradually eWires have stepped from thin strands of copper to much larger ones -suited maybe for static routings but extensively used to mobile connections. I think the cost is the answer. I myself have encountered such non-fatal failures in my car; but that’s a side story. The fact is that OEM’s push the limits and in laser engraving branch it is translated in like Atomstack notorious failure: Atomstack Unibody Module Cable - GeeksAtLarge.com Again thanks a lot for your support - I wish for a painless upgrade!