Problem is that if i hit Start on LightBurn the MKS resets itself each time.
I tried almost anything.
Increase the distance between the MKS and LPSU. Reset again.
Removed everything from the controller except the PWM cable. Reset again.
Put some ferrite choke on the PWM cable. Reset again.
If i use 0% power on LightBurn it works fine.
if i use 20% power it could take more but eventually some time it will reset again.
As soon as the MKS send signal to the LPSU something going on that it does not like it
and the MKS reset itself.
Is it possible that the PWM sends back through the LPSU something and make it reset itself?
A photo of the box, really isn’t much help… especially since you can’t see the connections…
It appears to have the issue when it needs to lase.
Dose your lps have a ground to more than just the dlc board?
Sometimes it’s better to common ground the board, the lps, separate gounds to the 24V supply. In this case, it really should not matter as there is <20mA driving the lps, but a flaky ground can cause all kinds of issues.
Let us know when you burn you tube up from lack of coolant.
If air can access the surface of de-ionized water, then in almost no time, it’s distilled water…
I was referring to the safety on the lps. The P terminal, you have grounded is for water protection… At some point, the coolant can fail, maybe in the middle of a job and they machine won’t know. The results is a burnt up tube… Do yourself a favor and get some insurance in the form of a coolant switch and use the P terminal to disable the lps.
You are right about P terminal and coolant failing but right now my main concern is not that.
After some more tests it seems that if i use more than 30% percent power the board resets itself.
Honestly i dont know what seems to be the problem and i am really frustated.
I am closed to believe that my board is damaged because sometimes it reset itself if i unplug and plug again the usb to my laptop.
Is both -V the same as ground? I had a supply that -V was 50V above ground level and burn up a board. Check it with a voltmeter. If they are not the same, then your signals won’t work properly. They must have a common reference, which is usually ground.
Sometimes these are electrically isolated.
Have you measured the output voltage, I see it’s adjustable.
These are pretty tough devices… I’d suggest you have something else going on as it works, generally speaking.