Been following you…
Thanks for the post and procedure you are using 
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Got a microscope lens for the phone. Closeup of the dither dots. Individual versus a more solid black area.
Thats cool! I like how it looks like a little explosion at each dot to mark the ceramic.
Nice photo… I have a microscope that I look at damage from the laser quite often… it’s the best way to ‘see’ what it’s really doing.
It’s nice to see the continuous black…
I have problems with this kind of consistency.
Thanks for the photo…
I have a 5w FoxAlien laser, can anyone give me settings to use this method with? I’ve tried the Norton White but it does not give the color or effect I want.
I would try for something like 1200mm/min 80% power just as a baseline with what I was running when I was running a 5W diode. More important than the power/speed is having the focus set as spot on as possible. With a 5w it’s possible to get good results with a marginally focused laser if you overpower it (eg 80+%). However, this will affect your image quality in the end if you’re trying to do fine/ detailed raster engraving.
Hey so I have been pretty out of the laser game for a few months with life happening and what not but over the holiday I got myself a rotary and started working on glass, in case anyone was wondering using this method works great on contured glass products.
I’m still a bit new to this whole glass / rotary thing but Ive been learning the ropes. I have found that 3 hoppers of my airbrush provide a good coating across the entire work area and that 1500mm/min provides more consistent results than 2000mm/min. Recently I have been using an Atomstack S10 and running at 50% power. The first image is a raster, second is a vector both ran at 254 dpi. and 2000mm/min for items pictured.
Now that I have started to get more consistent results I am going to be trying to push down the number of coatings.
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Nice job. They look great!
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hey, thank’s for the advice
I’m trying the water/PVA/TiO2 solution and it works well with my 4W diode laser but having problems with a 60W CO2 and was wondering if people found 2 or more coats works better with higher power machines?
The CO2 laser has a minimum power setting of 10% and so far it just vaporizes the coating. Going to try 2 coats tomorrow and reducing the DPI from 300 to 150.
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Im.curious as well if this is doable with a co2. I kn ow the dots a bit larger but still curious on settings.
I do these on the co2, at least used to… never on my dpssl.
On the co2 my power is down around 10 or 11% and my tube is 40W… You’re probably running 50% more power than I did.
I found with too much power, it just seems to evaporate the TiO2. I don’t remember the interval I used, but it might be part of the problem.
If you are at your power minimum, then your only options are to try a larger interval and/or go faster… 
I used the material test to locate a good spot…
I did some tests today and it didn’t turn out so well. LightBurn can’t work with the ULS laser so it was very painful to run a square, move the square, go to manual settings, change the settings, repeat.
Each horizontal row is a test documented on the notepad. I ran one tile on my diode laser with LightBurn to validate the coating.
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