Hello Everyone. I recently Got a Ortur Laser Master 2 and have been having great fun with it. I feel the 20w is under powered for cutting. am still testing different air assist. But i was wondering since i have the casing for the laser modular is there a way of swapping the laser diode and lens for a more powerful version say 40 or 80w? if so would i need any thing more than just the laser diode?
Thank you
You would need a new power supply for the laser module itself. You canāt get 40W out of the 3A supply on your unit. You might need a new mount and you probably wouldnāt be able to use all of the existing workspace since the 40W laser is bigger and will interfere at min X,Y.
Iāve never heard of an 80W āhobbyistā diode laser.
Thanks for the info. It does sound like buying a new 40w laser mod would be the easier route to take. Iāve seen the 80w online but from my research am starting to think this might be a lie.
People love to tell you that āitās not 40 wattā because itās not. Thatās the input power not the output power. There is no 80 watt diode, only 80 watt CO2 lasers. You can upgrade the diode, but as mentioned, you need to upgrade just about everything except the gantry. Itās almost not worth it to be honest. Just learn with the Ortur then upgrade to a CO2 laser.
Jtech has upgrades including a 7 watt output diode but itās very expensive.
Hi, I agree with āWillieā donāt waste your moneyā¦
I bought my first laser in december(LM2) Great little machine but after 5 months i had to get a Co2 and now my little LM2 doesnāt get a look in. 
Learn what you can with the cheaper one before you fork out all the cash on something you may not want. 
The supply for my 30 watt SS diode runs of 24 voltsā¦ That means 24*3 is 72 watts. The output is less than 10% of that 
Tried to find supply voltage for the 40 watt unit, no data, but the pictures look like itād be lucky to supply 2 amps. But still within the 40 watt usable range if itās 24 volts.
I have learned all lasers are different. Based on the frequency of the unit. Some things work well at the diode range, I think itās about 450 nm, CO2 is about 10.6 um. They effect material differently as the frequency changes. That saidā¦
The CO2 does amazing stuff for the price. If you want to dump 7K for a ācheapā fiber laser, but still out of the range of most.
The other consideration, is the device (actual laser module āheadā) you have is mostly heat sink. If you could double the input power youād have a large increase in the size of the cooling area. Probably more than double the current head size and weight to deal with the losses inherent in the system. Increase in mass of the head changes machine operation, maybe to a point where it fails to move it properly.
Your type of machine is about maxed out for any reasonable work.
I purchased a China Blue and in a few days Iāll have had it a month. Iāve already rewired parts of it and replaced the head. I purchased it to learn onā¦
So what do you want to do, is the best question you can answer. Then find the device that fits the bill.
Both lasers I have, have been a joy/headache and learning experience. Iāll keep both and find another type down the road, if affordable.
Best of luck 
What you have is irrelevant. OP has an Ortur LM2 which is a 12V 3A supply.
No, you canāt. You can get something like a Neje 40W (10W output) if you buy the board adapter and the new power supply, but youāll be paying around $250+ for those parts, only to increase your output by maybe 3 or 4 watts. Not worth the money.
Now changing out your lens to a G7 or G8 will increase your performance dramatically. That would be the route to take. I use the G7.
Diode lasers are made for hobby crafting/engraving, not cutting. And while I do make boxes and puzzles with mine, itās very time consuming.
I shouldāve bought the NEJE.
@LaserWillie I had a lot of problems with my Neje, not a single one with any of the 3 Ortur lasers I have. If you want to cut, get the G2 lens - for fine detail and better cutting, the G7 or G8 work great. Theyāre only about $16 each, delivered on eBay.
Neither the Ortur or the Neje are made for cutting, theyāre diode lasers. However, if you want the cutting performance of the 40W (10W output) Neje, get the G2 lens. I have the G2 on my 7W Ortur and it cuts just as good as the Neje. The trick to cutting is the focal length and diode shape on these particular hobby lasers.
Donāt second guess yourself, just make some lemonade!
Iāve got the AtomStack A5 Pro. So itās a 5.5 watt. The diode is hard pressed in and the nozzle isnāt removable as far as I can tell. Or Iād upgrade the lens. But I appreciate the info.
I imagine the lenses would make a major difference in operation. I think itās probably more important for a good focus than actual beam generation. Iāve seen that with my CO2 machine.
Does the G number indicate any kind of focal length on the Ortur lasers?
I didnāt fool around much with lenses as mine was adjustable for focus. I didnāt find any available lenses for it.
I have attempted to figure out what output power it is. A Mahoney reads somewhere below 10%, but itās for a CO2/YAG laser frequency. I have both a 30 and 40 watt SS diode lasers. Neither output more than about 10% of the power in as far as I can tell. They are difficult to measure without specific equipment. However most of the documentation of these state you can expect around 10% power conversion. I agree with them that my 40 watt probably produces less than 4 watts out. IMHO, I think 25% efficiency is optimistic at best.
I have consistently measured 5.5W output from my 30W NEJE diode. Admittedly that is at the low range for a Mahoney, but that seems consistent with what Iāve seen. What is different between the 40W and the lower power lasers is the smaller and more regular spot size. That means you get more energy per sqmm sec than the simple power wattage would imply.
Asked Mahoney about mine with a SSd laser and they stated "estimateā I thinkā¦ Like to have something for that frequency. Thatās almost a 14% conversion factor.
This post has me totally baffled. I have no idea what is being said here. An explanation or withdrawal would be in order, especially since it seems to have no bearing on the topic (or reality for that matter).