Has anyone ever tried to plug the Ortur YRC1.0 on a red and black 100w CO2 laser (vevor) with a GX16 4-pin connector?
I’m wondering if it’s doable and how to connect the cables in the GX16 connector.
Thank you 
While doable - the little Nema motor might really not be able to survive long at 24v and higher amps.
You would probably prefer a stronger setup, in my opinion.
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A nema 17 stepper will run at 24 volts, but you would need to limit the current to 1 or 2 amperes max
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Yes, also, being the YRC enclosed - the motor has no air flow, so I Suspect it would run Very hot.
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Thank you so much for getting back to me.
I bought a GX16 4-pin connector, any idea about the position of the wires?
Is there a way to limit the intensity from the driver? If so, since it’s using the same driver as the y-axis, I’m guessing I would have to switch the intensity back and forth when switching between the two…
I have a YRC1 and I had to configure it in the following way:
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I had to buy a driver because it works differently than the ones on my machine. I bought the TB6600 Driver
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On the side I have pins 1 2 3 set to OFF (32 microstep) and pins 4 5 6 to ON (0.5 Current A)
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To switch between the Ortur and the machine on the Y axis I put a reverse switch for three-phase motors (very cheap and unbreakable in my country, and can be found in any hardware store)
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From the Ruida controller on the Y axis there are 3 cables, Red (5V), Blue (PUL/CW), Yellow (DIR/CCW). These go to the center of the aforementioned switch. The ones below the switch go to the Y axis driver (position 1 on my switch). And the ones above go to the TB6600 driver (position 2). If the switch is in the center (position 0) none of them work.
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I’ll give you a diagram of how I have wired the driver. Here you will see how to assemble your GX16 plug
Ask me if you have any questions, this works perfectly for me.
PS I’m using a translator (in case you don’t understand any words)
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Back when I had my MF-1220-50 I was using a separate driver (I think it was a DM545 but not sure) and a NEMA 17 to drive my bed up and down. It being a manual focus it was a real pain to crank that knob. With the additional driver (set to the appropriate current, as @Soniclab says) and the NEMA 17 it worked very well (I used the “Z” axis buttons on the HMI). There’s no reason you couldn’t do the same thing with your rotary. I did it with my 3D printed rotary, by using a toggle switch (on the input to the “Y” axis driver) to send the signal to the rotary’s driver. That rotary was also using a NEMA 17. My current laser has all NEMA 23’s, but I still have a separate driver for the rotary. I hope this all makes sense.
this is the NEMA 17 on my 50W
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Thank you very much for your help.
There’s already on the machine a switch to use either the y-axis or the rotary through the GX16 4-pin connector.
I’m guessing I don’t need another driver and I should just reduce the intensity of the one I have when I switch to the rotary.
I’ll just have to check where are the a+/a- and b+/b- connected on the GX16.
I guess the assumption was you would be using a rotary with a NEMA 23. I found that on my 50W OMTech they were over driving the motors (I think @jkwilborn had the same issue) and the motor on my rotary was getting hot. As I recall the current had been set to either 4.2 or 3.7 (from the factory) when it should have been 2.84 for a NEMA 23. Too be honest, if you are going to be switching back and forth between flat and rotary, I would consider installing a driver that’s set up for your NEMA 17. Having to mess with the DIP switches every time you change has the potential of sending double the current (if the switches didn’t get changed) to your rotary motor. Amazon has a toggle switch that would let you switch all four input wires between the “Y” axis driver and the additional rotary driver. This is how I set up my laser so I could use my NEMA 17 driven rotary. Out of curiosity, how are you switching the output between your “Y” axis motor and your rotary?
Of course, on my machine I also had a plug like that to work with the original driver for the Y axis. But when I tried the Ortur it didn’t work. Surely the manufacturers prepare this so that you buy the accessory of THEIR brand, ensuring that it works just by connecting it. When using another accessory, with another motor and another configuration, at least I decided to buy a driver just for this one, and not have to modify the configuration of the original driver every time I use it.
And as for the switch to change the Y axis and the rotator, I had a relay that didn’t work properly, it made false contact and left me with several bad jobs.
But that was my particular case and my own experience. If the current driver configuration matches the one needed by the Ortur YRC, obviously don’t buy or change anything.
I forgot to tell you that with the driver I have installed, I have 19270 steps per rotation in the Lightburn rotator option.
I haven’t checked yet how the switch is sending the signals from the driver either to the y-axis or the GX16 connector. If I install a dedicated driver in guessing I’ll have to move the switch on the controller output.
This is not going to be plug and play 