Even if the board operates at 3.6v, the fact we can’t get more than 2.0v out of that DA1 concerns me. Should it, or is there a valid reason it could be set up like that?
We have of course no record of what voltage was being sent to the OG PSU when it was working and no way to test it now…we put it back in the other day and the LCD panel just produced error codes, so it’s obviously finally given up the ghost rather than limping along. However we were assured our new one was a direct replacement.
I think we’re convinced the laser tube is not part of the problem, but other than that we still have too many variables. We MAY have replaced the old PSU with a model that is sold as compatible, but isn’t truly. The controller card MAY have failed to deliver the DA1 analog voltage for some reason. It MAY be operating on a 3.6v system instead of 5.0v.
Actually one thing I forgot…I stuck the multimeter into a lot of points on the controller card today…including the clearly labelled DC5v points for the X, Y and Z-axis motors. These DID all read exactly 5.0v.
In your experience, is it possible that a controller card could have 5v and 3.6v? My simple brain (as in I try to simplify things wherever possible) would assume “5v for all” to be a better option.
What we DO know now (thanks to you mostly) is that our new PSU expects a 0 to 5v input and translates that into a 0 to 100% strength value in terms of the maximum milliamp setting controlled by the potentiometer; (a little recessed screw that is the very devil to find and when you do, offers no assistance in which way to turn it or how much effect a half turn or full turn has on the output. Guess. Twiddle. Check for effect. This is not my idea of fun).
But I’ve made at least one decision. We are changing our “test” steps from 0%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% power to 0%, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% and 100%.
Why?
Because if we are working from 0 to 5v, they should equate to single volt steps; 0, 1, 2, etc.
See? Simpler. . I do like simple.
If we configure the replacement card correctly, there are three options for the output when 100% is selected as follows
2.0v
Then this is exactly the same as our current card. Regardless of whether it’s operating on 3.6v or 5.0v, this would seem “wrong”. This for me would be the worst result.
3.6v
Means your OG theory is correct and we need to find an OG PSU to match. Second worst option.
5.0v
Means the board failed (perhaps as a result of the PSU failing and taking some component or other on the card with it…or vice versa). Best result. Once we’ve installed the card it should work with our new PSU and we can start cutting (and posting dancing kittens here).
Here’s hoping.