PSU and Reci compatability advice

Community Laser Talk
1

Hoping some knowledable person out there can help me.

I have a 100w reci laser with a JYJG 80w PSU(came with the machine when I bought it). I think PSU is fried now and I have to replace it. I know it was undersized but I rarely used the laser anywhere near full power which I presume is why it lasted 4 years.

On the machine I mostly engrave wood and cut sandpaper so my 100w reci is oversized. I only really need the Reci W1 75watt. My current 100w reci is 4 years old so i presume its near the end of its life so when it is, I will downsize to the 75watt W1 reci.

Id like to get a decent PSU to replace the cheap chinese crap i have now. Im looking at Cloudray as they seem a trustworthy site from China. Im in EU. W&Z&Es Series – Cloudray Laser

Am I right in thinking the Cloudray 80-100W HY-Z would be compatablie for both the W1 75w reci and the W2 100w? This would be ideal as then I wont need to buy different power supply when my existing tube dies and I downgrade to the 75w. Or am I better getting the 100-120watt PSU? Any advice as to what is best to do?

thanks
G

2

Check the output voltages. The PSU must always be stronger than the tube, doesn’t matter if you don’t run it at partial power. Using the 80W supply on a 100W tube means you most likely cooked the flyback transformers. Some 80W PSU’s will handle a good quality 90W tube, but barely. The 100W was out of it’s range.

3

So am I understanding it right that the PSU should be fine for both the 100w reci and the 75w reci?

So the reci specs are:

reci screenshot
reci screenshot1421×1507 187 KB

And the specs of the 80-100w PSU

PSU specs
PSU specs1333×1462 99.1 KB

4

At this point I have three 60 W HV supplies in hand:

  • a failed ZYE MYJG60W-Y-1 (came with OMTech laser)
  • an unbranded MYJG60W replacement from OMTech
  • a Cloudray M60 (bought as a backup)

Inside, all three have identical PCBs with a prominent ZYE silkscreen legend, populated with seemingly identical components.

My guess is there’s only one ZYE factory (or a dozen clones) producing all the power supplies, then applying whatever sticker the order calls for on the case before dropping it in the carton.

Perhaps Cloudray buys more quality control than the anonymous “brands”, but I wouldn’t lay much money on finding more than two QC bins at the end of the assembly line: either it runs or it doesn’t.

Edit: Should the question come up, herewith pix of the PCBs:

PXL_20230122_234613437 - HV Power Supply - ZYE MYJG60W-Y-1 - failed
PXL_20230122_234613437 - HV Power Supply - ZYE MYJG60W-Y-1 - failed1500×1125 297 KB

PXL_20230222_170027516 - HV Power Supply - unbranded MYJG60W
PXL_20230222_170027516 - HV Power Supply - unbranded MYJG60W1500×1125 252 KB

PXL_20230122_234943929 - HV Power Supply - Cloudray M60
PXL_20230122_234943929 - HV Power Supply - Cloudray M601500×1125 313 KB

You can verify they’re different PCBs by comparing the white silicone snot on the transformers …

5

Thanks ednisley. I can see they are likely all from same factory. I see other sellers selling idetnical looking psu’s with differnet sticker on it. Im going with cloudray anyway as I have purchased other stuff from them and had a non stressful experience.

So I think im just going to buy the Reci W1 75W laser tube now too along with the PSU. I save a bit on shipping anyway.

I like the look of the z series PSU’s as I can connect it to the ruida controller to it via RTlink and see the MA output to make sure I dont go over reci reccomended MA.

But I still dont quite know what PSU to go with. Based on what dave is saying I should look at the output voltages.

Reci says max PSU output voltage is 40KVA(previous post screenshot). The Z80 has a max output voltage of 35kva ( also screenshot on my previous post). Does this mean I should get the Z100 Screenshot below and just limit the MA.

100w PSU
100w PSU2624×1633 237 KB

6

Is this a means to ensure us you didn’t post the same picture 3 times?

I disagree with the position there is only a pass/fail bucket. There are plenty of these supplies out there that don’t make the 90% voltage in <=1mS… meaning they fail testing. Not 100%, but maybe <=1.5mS… they can and do sell these to manufacturers.

My 50W OMTech was actually more like 40 … I don’t consider this good business practice… to lie to a customer about a product. I’ve never purchased from them again and won’t*. How many people have OMTech machines that don’t even make the power they told you and sold you?..

@Eleusis to put this simply. The response time of your tube is really dependent on how fast the lps can reach the firing voltage. Your machines lps being 80W and the tube being 100W means there is no way the 80W lps can produce enough voltage fast enough to fire your 100W tube within the required time… So you lose in response time.

Remember the lps, to pass has to produce 90% placard voltage in <=1mS. The placarded voltage of the 80W is less than the voltage required for your tube, so the response of yours is slower as the lps has to generate higher voltage to lase.

This limits how fast you can engrave and maintain control.

A larger lps will give you a quicker response time, since it can hit the lase voltage of a smaller tube quicker…

Too big and you could have problems limiting the current… I’d stay within 15 to 20%

I have had a good relationship with Russ Sadler and he’s advised many people that Cloud Ray uses/sells only grade A parts and machines.

I purchased the replacement tube for my OMTech from Cloud Ray… performs to specifications.

Unlike the specifications of my OMTech machine… :poop:

I’ve seen photos of new tubes, one was an 80W Reci… genuine Reci, but it was marked 75W… this was a B grade tube sold to other vendors/manufacturers… it is a 80W Reci, just a grade B model…

I also just purchased a fiber laser from Cloud Ray.

Stick with Cloud Ray…

Good luck

:smile_cat:

  • I do have some of OMTech coolant :face_with_spiral_eyes:
7

FWIW, if you like a red dot and don’t care for the on the head set up, consider an SPT TR series tube with an integrated red dot. They won’t work if you use GaAs lens’ though.

8

Granted this is hear say…

I specifically asked Russ about this, I thought it would be trick to have a pointer, since I’ve never really had a useful one…

He advised against it, he’s seen to many that were not adjusted and couldn’t be or something like that… So I skipped it… They are not low cost…

:smile_cat:

9

Verily, I used the snot to keep track of them!

Oh, all right, three buckets. Work with me on this. :grin:

When I bought my mini-lathe, I read a report that, back in the very early days of mini-lathes, there was one factory making all of them. Various brands chose different colors, so the final assembly area had rows of green / red / blue / white lathes. Each brand chose a different QC level, to the extent they sold every lathe they made: there were no QC failures.

Word: never, ever, buy a red lathe.

At some point I must swap in the “Cloudray” ZYE power supply to see how it differs from the “unbranded” ZYE supply. I expect they’ll have essentially identical risetime and current regulation performance, but I’d really appreciate being pleasantly surprised.

10

Really? I thought the red ones were “made” or designated to Sieg who I thought were the original manufacturer and likely to have the best QC. I guess I need to rethink this. Been thinking about a bench size lathe for a bit…

11

Around here, red mini-lathes come from Harbor Freight stores, affectionately known as “The Home of Single-Use Tools”.

Maybe Sieg specifies a different shade of red, because their reputation sits a few orders of magnitude above HF.

12

I guess I’ll need to get something labeled in that case… Thanks for the insight.

13

Does this mean something?

@ednisley I’ve worked in lots of manufacturing, from buses to microchips… Never been anywhere there is 100% useful output…

Check this guy… quite a part of history…

:smile_cat:

14

I guess “branded” would have been a better term. Something with a known manufacturer’s mark rather than unlabeled or labeled with a marketer’s name. I had previously thought that getting a red unit was code for getting a Sieg branded lathe. That’s apparently not the case.

15

As noted in post 14, a genuine tube, just a B grade.

:smile_cat:

16

“Useful”. I think that word does not mean what you think it means.

:grin:

In that (alleged) mini-lathe factory, the paint went on after the QC sort: the far left-hand bin, the one you or I might label Scrap, fills up with red lathes.

Now, should the manufacturer find somebody willing to buy the contents of that bin, then, by definition, the factory has Zero QC failures, because they ship every lathe they make!

That the red lathes require, shall we say, considerable consumer intervention to turn them into functional lathes isn’t a problem to the factory.

Stipulated: lathes sorted into a bin further to the right wear a different shade of red, so not all “red lathes” come from the Scrap bin.

Caveat very much emptor.

17

Sorry. I was talking about lathes in this scenario. Just a side diversion.

If you have a grade for every level of quality, then nobody fails! :brain:

18

thanks for the help. Seems it started quite the debate on quality control on chinese manufacturing.

Anyways I decided to just buy the 100w PSU that cloud ray match for reci tubes (DY13). Gonna use my 100w reci until its fully gone. Seen people mention they have reci’s lasting 8 years so maybe many years left on it yet.

19

I have my old one and I used the old connectors so it’s an easy swap… I have to re-align as it’s not really operating in the TEM0 state… if I have a tough job, I’ll swap it back and drive it hard… save the replacement…

I’m gonna run it till it’s dead… then on the mantle with the other tubes… :wink:

:smile_cat: