Rotary - black on stainless?

So, suggestions on full vector engraving Painted mug?

A) Is this black remnant of the paint coating?
B) Too slow causing the black ? Doing 150 @ 30 on 80watt.
C) Too close on line interval using 0.05 line interval.
D) Not enough power

On RTIC powder coated mugs, I can use spray and clean them shiny, but this painted mug won’t clean. Tried magic eraser, and degreaser spray.

I can see shiny stainless on the perimeter of each letter, but fill is black.

Thoughts / suggestions?


This is a vector?

Is your rotary a chuck type?

What ‘length’ lens?

It looks like a scan… and out of focus, could be the speed/dpi combination, maybe kind of fast, high dpi. Referencing the edge of the letters, near the stainless color…

You might have to take one and do some square blocks to get the depth or results you are after.

IMHO, it looks burnt… but that doesn’t account for the black, I don’t think

I do this on my 50 watt at 200 @ 15%, but the small vector cuts, you can’t make speed. Lowering power is hard as around/below 9.5% I can’t guarantee a lase.

I buy ‘cheap’ mugs and the coatings are probably different.

I use LBT100 with pretty good success. Spray on then lase, molecularly bonds to the metal. This mug is done with their spray (can). Scan…

Not real cheap, but works pretty well and is non toxic. There are others.

Hey Jack,
Yes, system native fonts.
Rotary is CloudRay wheels, not chuck.
I’m using a Plano 50.8mm lens in focus.

This paint coating is really really thin, a lot thinner than RTIC powder coats.
Thinking I might be using tooo much power and burning the stainless. Maybe need to go back to 0.1 on the line interval and speed up and power down.

The power level was my thought also.

Not sure if I know exactly what that is…

Most of us have a hard time keeping the cup on the rotary doing vector, they tend to jump around along with possibly not making speed.

With a 2" I can get a 0.2mm dot at best. If you are doing the same, then your scan of 0.05 will pass over the same area about 4 times, if you follow me…

The best I can get is about 0.07mm with the compound lens. That’s probably optimistic.

The other item I’ll point out, keep in the back of your mind as it could/will effect the results.

Specification of the lps response time is <= 1mS (1/1000 sec) to achieve 90% of full voltage.

Taking that value of 1mS, the maximum number of ‘dots’ you can make is 1000 dots/second.

You are moving at 150mm/s or 5.9inches/s with a dpi of 508.

One second to put down 5.9 X 508 = 3000 dots/second.

The lps is only capable of 1000 dots/sec, or 1/3 of the 3000 dots/s, so you would have to lower your speed to a third… :frowning:

Does this make sense?

My lps is a 60watt on a 50 watt machine (and a 44watt tube), so I have a pretty quick lps. I figured it’s quick enough for that 508 to be possible, but I can’t make a dot that small to make good use of it…


Yes, makes sense.
Think the black is from me burning it too much, explains the shiny perimeter that gets hits once.

Think I’ll speed it up, lower the power, and go back to 0.1 line interval.

Check your lens… I burnt up one of my 2" lenses dealing with stainless…


I use Brilliance with huge success and its way cheaper than others

Actually have a 10% off code


I guess my post was moot… :frowning:

Take care…


I was blasting stainless directly… bad idea…

Did leave a mark, but cost me over $20 in a new lens… really didn’t think that much energy would get back to the lens with any kind of power… live and learn…

Checked out the brilliance. When I run out of LBt100, might give it a try.

Some people use Molybdenum spray lubricants for a similar effect. I haven’t tried that.


Brilliance just started selling RED Tone also.

Did you solve the problem?


Yes, too much power. The higher power worked great for powder coat, but not for thin anodized.

from 150@30% 0.05 lpi
to 300@14% 0.09 lpi
However, ironically, the customer liked the dark burn contrast on the lighter Rose Gold color mug. Go figure. But the darker purple with lower power looked great.

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