Rotary Taper Compensation Feature Needed – Scaled Split Sizes for Varying Diameters

Hi all,

I wanted to follow up on a feature suggestion I submitted here as there’s been no discussion yet, and I believe this could be a really valuable improvement to LightBurn’s rotary support.

Problem:

When engraving wraparound designs on glasses with varying diameters—such as wine, tumbler, or pint glasses—the current rotary logic assumes a single uniform diameter. Even if the artwork is warped with the Taper Warp tool, LightBurn still slices the job into equally spaced splits based on that single value. This causes misalignment between slices where the diameter changes, especially over concave curves, because the same angular rotation results in different arc lengths. Gaps or overlaps form where each split begins.

Using overlap helps slightly, but since it’s applied uniformly across the axis, it only fixes part of the issue while causing excessive double-burning or shadowing in other areas.

Feature Proposal:

Add the ability to input both a top and bottom diameter in the rotary setup. LightBurn could then calculate the true circumference at each engraving height and taper the width of each split accordingly—effectively turning each slice into a trapezoid that matches the surface it’s covering.

This would keep the engraving perfectly aligned all the way around, even on curved or tapered glass.

Here’s a more complete visual explanation:

Why this matters:

Especially with the Omni 1 UV laser, the engraving quality on glass is incredibly clean and detailed when using a 0° or 45° scan angle. It closely mimics the appearance of sandblasted designs. This works best when using larger split sizes to reduce visible transitions—but that only works well on flat or cylindrical objects. On tapered glass, those same large split sizes introduce visible misalignments.

Most people compensate by using very small split sizes (like 0.1mm), but this introduces many fine lines into the design, breaking up detail and creating an unnatural look. A tapered split system would maintain both visual smoothness and alignment, allowing us to use the wider split sizes that give the best result.

Compatibility with Scan Angles:

This would work best at 0° or 45° scan angles, where the beam moves across or diagonally along the axis of rotation. At 90°, where the beam moves parallel to the rotary axis, diameter changes would still cause issues—but the 0°/45° case covers most users who want clean glass engraving.

Clarifications (for common responses):

  • Taper Warp only warps the artwork. It doesn’t influence how the rotary moves or adjust step distances between slices.
  • Overlap helps close gaps but does not account for variable arc lengths—overlapping too much in one area and not enough in others.
  • Yes, you could manually compensate by warping and modifying the artwork by slicing ‘wedges’ from it, but this is tedious and doesn’t scale for production.

Machine details for context:

  • Laser: ComMarker Omni 1 UV Laser
  • Rotary: ComMarker R5 Rotary

I’m active in several groups and forums where people use the Omni 1 UV laser and others, and one of its standout capabilities is how well it engraves on glass. A lot of users run into this exact alignment issue, but I’ve yet to see anyone come up with a proper solution. Implementing a feature like this would definitely help a large number of users who rely on LightBurn alongside UV lasers for detailed glass work.

Would love to hear from the team or others if this is something technically feasible—or already possible in a way I’ve missed.

Thanks!

— Adam

Question, how would you deal with the focus, do you angle the rotary and the wineglass axis with intent that the engraving surface is roughly level, or does the axis remain level and rely on a large focal range? How do you intend to deal with the gradual curve from min diameter to max diameter? I doubt it is a straight line on most wine glasses.
I think you are missing one factor, can’t quite get my head around it but a rectangular split is already projected as a tapered split as the angular movement is equal at min and max, but the surface movement is not.
A simpler solution would be to make split and LI equal or a very small multiple, although a real slow way to roll.
I like the idea but a lot of technical stuff to overcome. Following along…

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In your example glass, this is not true. What you need to define is a pin cushion (or reverse of that, can’t remember the correct name). in other words, the sides of the drawing would have to be curved to compensate for the changing diameter of the goblet
Taper Warp Goblet.lbrn2 (63.2 KB)
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I have attached the LB file to illustrate my thinking.

Hey Al – good questions!

Focus / glass alignment
With the Omni 1 the UV beam’s depth of focus is only a couple mm, so I try to keep the engraving band as close to level as I can. On pint glasses that’s easy; on stemware I just limit the artwork to the zone that sits within that tolerance or shim the chuck so the section I’m marking is square to the lens.

Why a rectangular split isn’t “already tapered”
LightBurn keeps the linear split width constant. The rotary turns the same angle for each slice, but because the circumference changes, that angle maps to a longer or shorter arc length. So the slice itself doesn’t taper—the material “under” it stretches or shrinks, creating the gap/overlap. In other words the software assumes a perfect cylinder; the surface movement is different, the split isn’t.

Super-small splits / LI multiples
Yes—making split = LI (or a tiny multiple) does hide the drift, but at the cost of huge run times and you still get micro seam lines that look scratchy on glass. Scaled splits would let us keep bigger, cleaner strokes (45 ° in my case) and still meet perfectly.

Totally agree there’s some maths to add behind the scenes, but functionally it’s just letting LB rescale the X-step or start-offset per slice based on two (or more) diameter inputs—the same way it already rescales for drum rollers with gear reductions.

(Example below shows three rectangles (each are 12mm in width, and set to 4 mm split size) engraved on the same pint glass with the object diameter set to the top, middle, and bottom diameters respectively. You can see the one set to the top diameter overlaps at the bottom, the bottom-diameter version leaves gaps at the top, and the middle-diameter version shows both an overlap and a gap—exactly what the tapered-split idea would eliminate.)


Appreciate you following along :slightly_smiling_face:

Thanks, Mike. A pin-cushion (or barrel) warp does fix the artwork itself, but it still relies on tiny equal-width slices in LB—so you eliminate the visual stretch yet you keep the seam lines (or need a huge run-time if you set split = line interval). The tapered-split idea would take that same math and push it into the rotary motion so the seam disappears as well. Essentially: pin-cushion handles the art, tapered splits handle the slice alignment.

Sorry, but I cannot get my brain to “warp” around the goblet. If you could cut your design into paper strips and show how it fits on the goblet, that would be a serious help. :nerd_face: