Router Base Plate - Laser vs 3D Printing (Demonstrating Countersink)

We had a router in need of a replacement base plate. After searching for some, I was inspired to draw up my own after seeing some examples of other self-created plates.

I made the first design in TinkerCAD, and off to the 3D printer to produce a PETG plate. Creating different elevations throughout the plate is relatively novice / beginner 3D drawing when building an STL for 3D printing.

So I thought I would use this as an example to demonstrate how, with a little bit of ingenuity, the same layering effect and countersink of the screw holes is accomplished on a laser machine using LightBurn.

This is just one approach. I am sure there are other ways.

Illustrated here, is the project file in its entirety:

Zooming in on the mounting screw holes, the countersink is accomplished through reduced concentric fill layers:

Comparing the results of these “bands of resolution” produced by my concentric rings on white 6mm acrylic to a .2mm 3D printed plate on PETG:

And a very important point I should mention:

3D print time = 5½ HOURS.
Laser time = Less than 10 minutes.

Project file attached

RouterBasePlate.lbrn2 (251.1 KB)


That looks like it came out really nice. Do you think the countersink could be accomplished using the “ramp” feature instead of concentric rings?

I’m not sure if I (personally) know how to use the ramp effect well enough. I feel like I have complete control to finely adjust the angle through the concentric rings.

Here is another picture of the alternative design on Acrylic compared to PLA:

And with it installed on a router in my dad’s shop:

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Nice job. I wish i had a big enough laser to do that it would give me a lot of options for my router.

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