Ruida 6442G CO2 / Diode laser 5500 mw

RF mod validated. It offers the possibility to fine tune diode laser. You can gently adjust the power as your wish :wink: Thank you a lot for your help. I ll now try to get the best adjustment in Lightburn. Every advice is really welcome.

Won t it be cool to make a sort of tutorial in order to show how wire ruida with diode laser and co2 and Lightburn parameter to help other.

I m ready to start it and feed it with my experiences and some of other for sure.

I was exited but now I wonder what’s going on… Manually power is really tuneable, but in Lightburn, power seems to be at max every time.

Any idea about my trouble ?

I can only suggest you measure the pwm output driving the led module and see if it’s correct for different percentage power settings in Lightburn.


I ll do this tonight and tell you the result.

Test have been done


25% 1.25v
50% 2.50v
75% 3.75v
100% 4.90

So manual is ok

Lightburn test material pattern

10 to 100% step 10.

Always 4.90 with sometimes values between 4.32 to 4.50 from time to times but at 10% I should be about 0.49v so my question is why manual % is OK and Lightburn “automatic” is not ?

I did not use RF mode when I did this… It’s being driven the same way it would with any other controller…

My only though, although doubtful is that the Ruida Laser 2 minimum is set next maximum… as I said I doubt it…

By manual, I assume you are doing this via the Ruida console?

Not sure about automatics meaning, unless you mean that it sets it automatically.

Does the layer in the Ruida console have the correct values for that layer?

I’ll have to think on this one…


Ok I m now glass tube mode. Here’s photos of lightburn “material test” set up.

What the hell I messed ?

When I plug my multimeter it shows me 4.90v so 100% in any case of material test.

I did a test with littles squares with a color for each one and edit properties of color with a step of 2% each times and in this case it runs correctly not only in the results but in mesurements in multimeter.

So now I wonder how to really do a grayscale ??? I was told that diodes were the best but here…

Not really clear what you mean here…

So at some point, it is working? I assume you’re using pwm output of the Ruida.

What are you doing with the L input when you’re switched to RF mode?

I think it would be better for us helping you to stop switching modes, this changes how the controller works, not to mention confuses me to death…

I think it should be in RF mode.


5 squares : for example


In this case, the power is really controled.

If I make a power test in Lightburn (see picture above) from 40 to 48 with 5 steps of 2 the power is always at 100% (mesured with multimeter 4.90V)

Jack, as you told me I left RF mode and go to tube glass because it runs for you so why not me.

What can I test Tube glass / RF mode, tell me I’m waiting for your “guide line” ?

Do you have a good file to test and what are your machine/color/etc parameter, that I can have the same thing to compare.

I hope you can sometimes understand me because my english is really far away (+30 years) and I don t really like translators.

Thank you for your patience !

I understand … I probably neglected some information, as I’m thinking rf mode… :poop:

Glass tube mode - Analog mode

A tube will draw as much current as the lps will allow, so controlling the amount of current controls the watts out.

The standard lps works this way. The pwm or an analog dc control voltage → IN of the lps… this controls the current limiting within the lps. This is how an analog device, the tube, has it’s current controlled.

The other control is from L-On → L or laser enable. When this goes low, it will lase at the IN specified current maximum.

This requires two signals, both pwm and laser enable.

Metal tube - Digital

The issue is that in metal tube or rf only generates a pwm when the laser needs to lase. As far as I know rf excited machine operate in a digital mode, which is how the ssl module operates.

When I used mine in glass tube mode, the L-On1 output was used to gate the pwm to the laser module… I would not expect it to work properly in glass tube mode driving an ssl module.


Hi Jack !

Thank you. Could you please tell me how to do with my SSL ?

RF mode / Tube Glass mode ?
Wiring ?
Positive + (1 on 12V external and the other from the ruida controller)

Is the louisiana hobby guy grayscale can fit to do this test or do you have something that I can try ?

Can you make a screen capture with machine specs in lightburn and color settings too please ?

I m now fully lost and quite ready to give up.

PWM to the IN terminal of the lps
L of the lps, will have to be pulled low, i used a laser enable switch i manually enabled before the burn.

G is ground and should be common to all components.

The Ruida handles digital devices (like an RF tube) only in RF mode.

Make sense?


I don’t understand anything… Do you have any photos of your job ? It could help… I m lost LPS is Laser Power Supply that s it ? I don t understand why I should plug my laser diode into the LPS…

Sorry not meant to confuse. We use lps (laser power supply) in order to distinguish it from a regular lower voltage power supply.

The IN terminal of the LPS is or usually wired to the L-PWMx (x is 1 for laser one, 2 for laser2) output of the controller. This is what needs to go to the diode pwm pin… I picked mine off the lps, since it was closer and the lps is turned off at it’s mains. I also don’t have to change connectors for one pin, just the way I wired it… same same.

If L-Anx is used wired to the lps IN terminal, I think you can ignore it. You must use LPWMx to drive the diode.

You hook it up like an RF module, except there is no enable line. Only ground and pwm, you must have power to the led module, but I’d suggest you get it from one of the supplies, not from the Ruida…


GND to GND (ruida and external power)
+12V to external power

RF mode in ruida

That’s it ?

I think you have it… It’s not a complicated setup. I think the Ruida uses RF mode as it’s digital mode since an RF machines are digital.

I’m clueless about the wire color, so that’s up to you, there is no standard. I’ve seen red wires to ground…

I’d suggest you use the RF no pre-ignition option. For all I can make out with these RF modules, they operate digitally as that’s the only control to them… so I am not a wizard on what these options actually do.


thank you a lot again. I ll test this tomorrow :wink: