Can someone explain the difference on the Ruida Controller RDV6442G
on a Monport 130W laser…
SET FACT PARA
and
DEF FACT PARA
If possible a little more indepth explanation than the manual gives !
Reason: New to Lasers and when working with LightBurn I had made some changes
to the Autofocus pen and did not make a factory back up…
I would like to get back to original controller install so I can make a proper backup
for safe keeping… A newbee mistake I am sure…
thanks…
DO NOT do a factory reset, which will blow away whatever the seller decided was the proper configuration for your machine and replace it with the bare-bones Ruida configuration suited for no real machine ever sold.
Per the LightBurn doc on Ruida configuration:
A factory reset of a Ruida controller resets it to the stock configuration supplied by Ruida, not the configuration your laser’s manufacturer applied to it. Because of this, a factory reset is not recommended. If you’ve already done it, this guide is here to help.
You can ask the seller for their defaults suited for your machine, but this tends to be a slow and non-productive process.
You can restore one of LightBurn’s automatic backups by hitting the Load from backup button at the bottom of the Edit → Machine Settings window, then picking one made before you began tinkering.
However, LightBurn does not save all the machine configuration options, some of which seem to be available only through RDWorks. If you have blown away the original config through a Factory Reset, you’re in the Pain Cave.
We would all like that, but the best you’ll find is a consensus of the hive mind …
Thanks…
No have not done and Ruida panel Resets… it was a bit scary…
I did make a back up but after I set the autofocus Pen up…
No big changes so I will just live with that back up…
As I took off the autofocus pen… Prefer setting the FP myself as I use
2" 2.5" 4" lens and its easier to estimate the best FP depth offest for cutting
thick materials…
Good to know thanks for thr warning…
chuck
Oh Hey Ed…
Thought that name sounded familiar…
Circuit Cellar Ink …
Glad to see you are still helping folks out…
I know Steve moved to Florida, just north of where I live here on the east coast…
Hope you are doing well
Chuck
Plenty of water over the dam since then. 
I recently worked my way through the Ruida controller’s Home Offset and Focus Distance settings:
Although I’ve only used the stock 2 inch lens, I depend on the autofocus for most materials. Now that I have the Home Offset set to clear the switch, adjusting for different lenses should be a matter of changing the Focus Offset to match: set one number and It (Should) Just Work.
And now that I have a decent focus ramp fixture, figuring out that number should be straightforward:
Keeps me off the streets at night, it does! 
OH nice ramp, just found my nex 3D print project for sure… Like I need another… 
I do the ramp test with ech lens change, easy and accurate…
Getting some meniscus lens in to play with hoping they give a little better cut than the standard flat bottom style… all interesting
Just got into lasers, got a product my son and I are gonna work on so we bought the
Monport 130W… w/ built in chiller… that was nice, did not like the external water solution…
have spent the last 3 weeks with 2" 2.5" 4" APC lens…
was able to nicely cut 20mm acrylic with 2.5", tried the 4" yesterday was able to
cut almost 3" acrylic at 80% power at 1mm/s but that was a test only…
my worst case will be 20mm thick, mostly 15mm, it leaves a nice flame polished edges…
Its a far cry from the Railyard designs we have been doing for 20 yrs…
But love playing with trains, we design the office and yard embedded control systems for switches in the classification yards…
but Lasers are fun now
Good talking to ya Ed , not sure if this has a PM option, if so drop me a line I trade off emails… if not my website is LinearLogiX drop a msg
Have a geeat week n stay in touch…
Miss those old CC Ink days… never missed an issue
Chuck
I used paper, but something heavier may sit flatter on the ramp: 22 pound paper wants to warp even after I give it a slight curl in the right direction.
Plywood / MDF may be more durable for your high-power laser:
Figuring the height with that thing involves too many steps for me to keep straight, but it is more rugged.
Wow!
Make sure the controller’s Start Speed is set below whatever you intend to use, because it will scale the power downward at slower speeds. I think if both the Min and Max power are above that level it will use the same power throughout, but a high Start Speed has bitten a few folks around here.
If you ever get the chance to straighten out the Selkirk yard near Albany NY, have at it! Mary spent entirely too much time sidelined in Amtrak trains while CSX fiddled around, but maybe that was just business as usual. 
Roll on …
Think I may have sent a response back to the
forum
noreply@forum.lightburnsoftware.com
Oh well did not see the noreply…
Will try to post it here…
Ed you’ve been working with laser for a while now…
The honeycomb typical base gives off the intersecting flashback on the underside material you are cutting…
I’m doing acrylic, and wondered if a steel flat bed would offer better results.
Other than raising the material off the bed that is, prefer a flat surface, but not sure it is really workable… reflection heating bottom material etc…
Any experience or thoughts?
@jkwilborn swears by his steel sheet, but I use either punk spikes on the honeycomb or the knife-edge bars under the (removed) honeycomb.
Spikes are basically the only way to handle badly warped material that you probably shouldn’t use anyway:
I’ve been cutting a lot of paper for Halloween decorations right on the honeycomb and it works fine. For anything with tighter QC specs, I generally make a fixture:
You could do something similar with acrylic, but the spikes get me a good distance toward the goal.