Sealing Slate for food

Hi, I engrave a lot of slate, and use a clear lacquer before engraving which gives me lots of contrast. I’ve been asked if I can engrave slate for use as a cheese board (server) and I’m sure if the lacquer would be food safe.
In the past I tried using mineral oil before engraving, which would be fine for food, but although this looked fine immediately after engraving, in a couple of days the oil had seeped into the engraved area, and then there was no contrast. So that’s not suitable.
Does anyone produce engraved slate for use with food, and if so what finish do you use on the slate.
Thanks for any help.

Interesting… I make slate coasters and seal them with a floor sealant to keep the water off them. I doubt that it would make a ‘safe’ eating surface but don’t know.

Hopefully someone will chime in that’s done it…

:smiley_cat:

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once cured Poly and I believe lacquer as well is safe. You could though use Odies oil/wax. Apply a very thin layer…let it harden for 45 minutes then buff with a clean rag. Will give a similar look to satin poly. It is pricey but lasts forever…I actually seal my charcuterie boards with Lacquer then apply Odies oil/wax. SOmetimes just Odies just depends. Odies is completely food safe.
Odies on Amazon

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Thanks Scott, when you say Poly, I take it you mean Polyurethane varnish?. Never heard of Odies, thanks for the link.

I’ve been engraving slate for a bit, and I get the struggle with finding a food-safe finish. Have you considered trying a food-grade beeswax or a combination of beeswax and mineral oil? It can enhance the contrast without compromising safety. I did this for a few cheese boards, and they held up well. I recently started experimenting with slate at Jay Kay’s Café in Dublin . They wanted something unique for their breakfast specials display. It’s been a hit, especially with the breakfast places near me crowd. Give it a shot and see if it works for you!

It’s stone. I’d probably rub it with a chunk of beeswax and take a heat gun to it, then buff it once cool. Basically the same as Odies in this use-case (which I do use and like), but faster and WAAY cheaper.

I coat my slate coasters with mineral oil.

Not sure if it’s food safe though.

Mineral oil is food safe; I use it on all my cutting/charcuterie boards (it can also be taken internally for certain digestive issues).

Mineral oil is fine. If you’re concerned about the fine print, get pharmaceutical grade.

Never used it on stone, but tung oil and (not boiled) linseed oil are also options. On wood, unlike mineral oil, they both cure to a durable film. I can’t guarantee they behave the same on stone, but I think they would. Takes a long time to cure, tho.

Personally, I used boiled linseed on my own hard-working cutting boards for decades before the internet told me it wasn’t safe. I can’t say I’ve noticed any ill effects on myself of my family.