I was able to figure out steps, split size and overlap. I can engrave square items with no issues. Anything that has a curve is distorted. Im using Aurora Lite, Rotoboss Talon Pro and LB.
Any suggestions.
Thanks in advance.
I’ll say to start looks like a nice rotary, I just have a direct drive and a belt drive 1:6. I don’t know much about the Talon pro except from reading the instructions.
S, that caveat out of the way:
The 16000 seems an odd step setting. Unusual. when you hit test you get exactly 360 degrees of rotation?. Did you do the 1" square calibration? If you get your circumference and steps correct, shouldn’t need any overlap with a galvo’s accuracy. Just guessing, the first test tumbler had the 0.350 overlap. Square objects are more forgiving as edges are straight from slice to slice and square to rotation. With an angle or curve any error and you get sawtooth.
This is from the rotoboss site
- If you choose to do the 360 deg test in lightburn it will alter the true 1 to 1 scale
that the above instruction set you up with and should be two separate setting files
for when doing engraving based on your project ( standard logo or wraps )
When trying to enable the rotary button for Y axis driven machines, for the main
screen follow previous instructions and search for beginner mode(circled below) and
make sure it is disabled as well.
I don’t agree with some of their instructions, (With galvo) if you get exactly 360 degrees that means your steps are correct. If the 1x1 square comes out stretched, You should change your scale. If you change your steps to compensate a full wrap will not come out as a full wrap.
But with galvo/ rotary, if your galvo is calibrated properly and steps are correct they should be one in the same.
Second they say galvo 25,600. Without knowing what your galvo’s microstep driver is set for, there is no way they could know. I think that is just max. Or maybe they are telling you to set your microstep driver for 25,600 as well as LB.
Best of luck, report back with results.
Thank you for the help. Will let you know.
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Thanks for the help. I was able to get the image to be circular. I forget the QR sizing, but I have dummy cylinders to play to refine. At least Im on the right path.
Thank you.
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Something still a little bit off, judging by the sawtooth edge. Closer though. Are you scanning parallel to the axis, no cross hatch? Post a screenshot your latest rotary settings and a screenshots of your cuts/ layers parameters if you like, I’ll have a look.
I had a similar issue. But mine was a little different. If i did a circular design the circle was perfect but it looked oblong on a curved mug because of the way our eyes perceived it. There is a formula you can used to correct this. I forgot the formula but basically you correct the size to make it oblong but when printed on a curved surface it looks round.
Glad you got the basics! For curves, try adjusting the rotary settings or focus. Have you checked the diameter settings?
I found my instructions on how to make a circle look visually correct on a curved mug:
I figured it out. If you measure the top of the mug and move the decimal point over one to the left. Then add that dimension to the width of the design, now the circle will look visually correct.
Example:
My design was 58.7mm x 58.7mm
The top of my mug measured 87.0mm
So i added 8.7mm to the width (Height since its rotated) of my design
58.7mm
+8.7mm
=67.4mm
The design will look stretched in Lightburn.
But visually it will look correct when viewed straight on on the mug
This method is not perfect and you may have to adjust this formula but the circle now looks much better visually even though it is stretched.
A little more testing and at least on the mug i was using the stretch needed was a little less than 10%. More like 8% for the best results
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Your Line Interval is kinda big, maybe you want to try around 0.0254 +/- add a few mm of defocus. I do 5-10 mm with a 300x300
Cross hatch is not a friend of the rotary unless you use "Run whole shapes "