1.lightburn 1.4.03
2.two tress TS2 20w
3. Material: 0.45 mm Coated iron plate
4.lightburn spd : 1200 pwr : 85 engrave mode
There is a problem that the iron plate is deformed during engraving.
There is no problem with the 0.3mm steel plate.
That’s what happens when you heat one side of a piece of metal…
What are you trying to determine?
It’s a nameplate.
3mm aluminum crumples due to heat
I think the TS2 laser type is the problem.
Try reducing your power and doing more light passes. Adding a heat sink to the back side of the material will help as well (some use aluminum sheets, or thermal pads).
Too much heat with no place for that heat to dissipate will cause metal to grow/warp.
Brilliant! (And, Duh!..I’ve been doing industrial welding, brazing, & soldering for decades and know well how to sink. Just didn’t consider it for this.). I’ve only done a little prelim testing of aluminum and stainless and have noted some warping here and there, but set it aside with a mental note to tweak speed/pass/power assuming that would take care of it when it came time to nail setting for a real job.
Heck, I’ve got some spare peltiers laying around…that could make an interesting experiment…
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Peltiers would work, but make sure you use a thermal pad. Try and get something that’s not too-too good at heat transfer, as those are typically super soft and aren’t conducive to lots of part changes. A peltier may be a bit overkill and not worth the time. A good sized aluminum plate would have enough thermal mass to do the job well for business cards
This would probably work well. https://www.amazon.com/OwlTree-100x100mm-Efficient-Conductivity-Resistant/dp/B09DC772PR/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3STISXO0ZYC5Q&keywords=thermal+pad+square&qid=1697604729&sprefix=thermal+pad+square%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-6
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I’ve got lots of aluminum plate lying around. I agree the peltier is silly…just a fun thought for being “over the top”. I’ll probably never commit the time to rig up anything like that when a chunk of aluminum would do the job so much easier. I’ll have to dig around…I may still have some copper plate from a previous life… I think it was about 6"x6"x3/8"
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I’m just going to tell you straight out !!! ---- 1.- Where did you find "steel plates?
2.- Your burning way to hot !! 85% of 20w = 17w.
I burn my own .03 mm color anodized aluminum cards using my Ortur 3000mw., (aka-3w.) with no problem at all !! If I’m in a hurry, I run 2000 speed and 100% power and when I want really, really clean work on my cards, I run 400 speed & 50% power.
I don’t know why you want steel cards, they just rust out over a period of time. Here are two of mine, red one burned at 2000/100 and the blue one burned at 400/50. Keep in mind this is with a 3w. laser and zero warping. The red one looks bad while the blue looks good, clean and crisp. Try getting some aluminum cards and run your power at 3 to 6 w. power, (20x.2= 4) May have to slow your speed down some.
NOTE to L.B. – Please don’t block my post, phone number is no good anymore and email I don’t care about.
Randy
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The iron plate coated like a mirror looked pretty, so I bought it as a sample in China, but I think it’s a matter of the material because it can’t be imprinted at all if the speed and output are lowered.
I think the coating has gotten darker.
The thin 0.3mm (half mat) aluminum plate has no problem at all.
The material doesn’t look pretty.
The steel plate I want is a steel plate that glitters like glass, but I think it’s a material problem.
I think the glass coated steel plate can be made with a laser exclusively for metal.
The laser I use is TS2.
Below is a 0.3mm steel plate. If you use a thin one
No problem at all.
I tried many things, but I failed
I think it’s because the steel plate coating is thick.
I don’t think there will be any special problems if I work with a metal laser.
The laser I use is TS2.
I think by “steel” and “iron”, we’re really talking about stainless. Different parts of the world translate these subtle distinctions differently. Like romance languages (Spanish/Italian) commonly calling it “inox” for short.
I have done some testing with both cold rolled mild steel and 300 series stainless. The CR was an experiment using some improvised masking techniques to allow selective painting and chemical rusting. I haven’t yet found anything as good ad what I do with a vinyl cutter and masking film.
My stainless tests, so far, were just ordinary Brilliance Ink spayed for high contrast marking. I may still play with untreated for color marking but I can’t say I have much personal interest in that technique.
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Thank you for your opinion.