I have the RDC6442S-b(ec), I would like to know if I can use the wind 5 connection on CN1 at the top and the 24v 6 connection on CN2 to a Solenoid?
Yes, you can pull either 24V ( recommended ) or even a 5V ( NOT recommended ). The Ruida controllers switch the ground via an opto isolated connection. WARNING: Do not use a capacitor to lengthen things out, they have a tendency to cook the opto isolators.
So pulling the 24v from the number 6 connection on cn2 and the 24v on the number 5 connection on cn1?
I have a picture but I cant upload it here
That’s why I suggested a Google Drive page. I have one for all my mods. It’s a literal drag and drop and super easy to share.
I have the 6445G. Every ground is a ground, every 24V is a 24V. I pull the solenoid feed for my air assist from the 24V on that connector, but I use the 5V from one of the others for a diode indicator feed. No problem. One thing to watch, the opto isolators are only rated for 500mA.
Why? Your system Copy and Paste should work. You can drag an image and place inline. There is also an Upload button.
Hey Dave, do you have any reference material on this phenomenon? Might be relevant to a number of problems I’ve been dealing with in the EE world…
No materials, just passing on horror stories. The laser controllers are fairly robust for what they are designed for, but not a lot beyond that.
There was a post here a while back where the guy used a capacitor to create a delay off for his exhaust fan pulling the signal from the STATUS terminal of the Ruida 6445G. It worked for a little while… then cooked both the STATUS and the WIND outputs. Luckily he was an electronics guy and stole a few opto isolators from unused outputs. I only have the documented info that they are only rated for 500mA, but I am not brave enough to crack the shell on my controller to get the actual part number and look up the specs. I’ll stick with standard relays and solenoids and watch the 500mA ceiling.
Yeah, the +24 is the same feed on the first two connectors, you can use either one as necessary.
do I have to add a diode inline when looking up the solenoid?
Diodes are required if you are adding the over ride switch and using both the WIND for air assist and STATUS for compressor control. When you over ride, you are combining two outputs unless you have the diodes in place. Remember, Ruida switches the ground, I can’t tell you how many times I put the diodes in backwards and tried for a while to figure out what I did wrong until I remembered that.
Do you have to add two Solenoids one for air assist and one for constant low air to keep the lens clean?
You will have a solenoid connected to the WIND for air assist. What if anything you have on the STATUS will depend out your set up. My first go around had me running on the diaphragm pump that came with my machine, and that was on a switch non the front of the laser. I turned it on and off manually, so no second relay or solenoid required. Even if you put a larger compressor in, if you have a manual valve to open and close when you start the laser up you will only need one solenoid and no diodes. You do need something to shut the air off though, the little bypass becomes a slow leak when the laser is not running. That means either the air compressor cycles um-necessarily when the laser is off, or you have to wait for it to pump up when you start your laser.
When you go to automatic control, you still do not need the diodes IF you don’t install the over ride. A solenoid for the air assist, and a means to control the compressor electrically or pneumatically. It’s when you put an over ride on and are combining outputs that the diodes are necessary to prevent back feed. They are an electrical one way door.
I have a list of parts to get to hookup the compressor, but will I get the low pressure come out to keep the lens clean?
24v DC solenoid
1/4 Quick connect compressor fittings
Hoes and connector kit
1/4 elbow connectors
In an air assist set up, you have two terms that my be a bit confusing. Bypass and over ride. They are two totally different functions.
Bypass is the little leak of air to the nozzle that keeps your lens clean no matter what you are doing. You can buy some fancy thumb screw valves, or do what I did and swing by the store and pick up an ice maker shut off valve. This is all purely physical parts, set and forget kind of thing. Crack it enough to just barely blow bubbles in water and it will have just enough positive pressure to keep most of the junk off your lens.It bypasses the solenoid.
Over ride is purely electrical. It is a switch that sends power to your solenoids / relays when the controller is not. That is why it needs the diodes top prevent back feed. Ruida’s have a nice feature, if you set the pulse operation to continuous, you can hit the air assist over ride, then the pulse and arrow keys at the same time and manually make a cut. Comes in handy when you want to cut a small piece from a long strip to make it more manageable.
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