I was previously using a Sabrent 4-Port USB switch. It recently went bad on me where I thought the controller board had malfunctioned. Although the switch had buttons, even when it worked it would not fully disconnect the lasers. I would have to unplug the USB cable for one laser before plugging the other one in.
I finally decided to make my own 2-port USB switch instead of buying a replacement. The lasers are all USB 2.0, so I decided to go with only switching 4 wires. Switching all 8 for USB 3.0 would mean using an 8-pole 3-posotion rotary switch, if I could find one.
Material List:
- Two each shielded USB cables. One male and 2 female connectors are required.
- Box for the switch and wiring. Size for the switch used.
- One 4PDT (4-pole, double throw, center off) switch. The center-off is to allow Windows time to DING so you know it is switching ports.
- Materials to secure the cables against pulls (I used hot melt glue).
- Tools or an electronics friend for soldering.
In the Switch Installed photo, I used the lid of a box that was shallow. I had to position the switch flat in the lid, so my switch operates front to back instead of sideways. If you want the typical sideways toggle operation, use a bigger box.
Parts (Amazon):
- 2.5" x 4" x 3" deep plastic box (I had one on hand).
- USB cables (UGREEN 2 Pack USB Extension Cable (3ft + 3ft)
- 4PDT switch (mxteuk 2pcs MTS-403 12 terminal 3 position 4PDT mini miniature toggle switch)
Please Note: I am using one Windows PC port for all the lasers (the iCube plugs into the S30 cable), so only one laser can run at a time. I get in trouble if I try to use both at the same time, so this system helps me function with confidence.
USB Switch.lbrn2 (149.5 KB)
And yes, I used Lightburn for my drawing.