Warped Chinese boards

Cutting a pattern only thing left was to cut the outside perimeter and the darn board jumped and the laser module hooked the board and everything moved not the first time I am having my doubts about this laser stuff.

What is the thickness of that (darn!) board? And please describe the shape and rough size of the part you were cutting out.

What is the clearance between the top of the board and the laser module? Is this the Jinsoku LC-40?..so 5mm?

Are you wanting to cut many of the same thing, or are these custom/one-off jobs?

If you can show a picture of how you had the board setup and what the job looked like and where the board lifted, it will help us to offer the right advice since there are many ways to help stop work from shifting. E.g. leaving tabs/bridges, fixing down selected areas by various means: tape/double-sided/glue/clamps/cams/magnets, even fancy vacuum jigs.

Or it may just be that a different material is a better option, or a different approach.

There is always a balance to strike between risk aversion, and risk tolerance, and when you are starting out you will be unwittingly taking risks, just make sure you always have extra material on hand, keep a close eye on the job (ready to hit pause) and allow yourself some extra time.

What exactly made the board move? Did your control wire snag the edge of the board?

What is your machine and enclosure??

Usually a little extra care will keep the mechanical interference to a minimum. Show us your set up and we can offer you advice.

I like to practice the engraving on cardboard scrap before I use my expensive wood.

We will help you get it sorted.

I bought a package of boards 12x12 in. x 3mm and when delivered all looked ok until I removed the shrink wrap and the complete stack bowed not a lot but enough so that I have to use tape and a few Xmas trees. I had a pattern for a box and was cutting 6 pieces and on the third piece this must have been the booby as the board lifted and the module caught the board and moved the Dofiki (honey comb). I have checked in my area as to where I can buy a full 4x8, with no luck. Hey thanks for the replies and be safe.

I must have bought that same package on Amazon, lol. A couple of days out of the wrapper all of them are bowed.

Finding truly flat thin plywood will be a major (and expensive) chore unless you can lay hands before purchase. Even then, storage and conditioning may change it post-purchase. Any warp you “remove” during fixturing is just temporary. You’re winding up a spring and as soon as the cut reaches a tipping point, the spring unwinds. Keep that in mind so any “unwinding” can be directed in a desirable way or set aside the really bad pieces for small parts.

This is also an excellent use-case for “tabs”. Properly tuned, tabs can be a real life-saver and still require little/no clean-up afterward. A few .5mm wide tabs cut halfway thru the piece may be just enough to save the job.

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I have tried everthing that I have been taught to get the panel to lay flat such as putting a smaill thin stick on the bench and lay the panels on top centered and add weight (varied Results), spritzing water and wieghting (varied Results).
I was a cabinet maker (retired) and finish carpenter and I have never seen such trash, our school gave me several boxes of Veneer (made in China) and every sheet is bowed.
Got that off my chest, Have a swell day