Which control board recomend?

Hi, i am new in this, i buy a sculpfun S10, later i buy a diy Machin without a láser module and control board for the láser module i buy the S10, but for the control board i dont know which buy, and want some recomendations in control board and if i need to configure It or is just connect It to the Machin

If you are completely clueless about where to start - maybe better choice is turn key ready to use machine.

If you insist on integrating bare bones with new electronics - there is very little practical technical difference in board selection available today. So unless you are doing something special - price will be the leading criteria.

My short answer: today, for common solid state/laser diode machine - MKS DLC32 is the choice, without LCD.

$15 from Ali or $30 from Amazon. I do not think this price can be beat. From Ali basic config comes with no stepper driver boards, though you can add some. Amazon came with bunch of 4988, which are ~$2 each. Better choice would be 2208, if you are willing to spend ~ $5 per driver board. They run essentially silent and have x4 finer stepping. If you are on the budget and do not care about very fine aspects of it - very little difference, 4988 are dirt cheap in bulk.
Original GRBL was written for old Atmel. ESP32 (used in DLC32) and STM32 are orders faster, but in practical terms once again very little difference, there is little chance you will ever run out of speed with old Atmel. There is essentially no difference in price, so for the same price I would chose some 32bit board. STM32 does not have WiFi, where ESP32 does.
Most ESP32 nowadays pretty much all running derivative of FluidNC firmware, including DLC32. MKS messed up LCD firmware, I’m still finding bugs, bit MKS not in hurry to fix any. IMHO there is no point in getting LCD for it. Same functionality is available with their pretty nice phone app. Unless you must have full offline control - skip the LCD. It can be used offline with phone, nothing lost.

Proper wiring is important. Unless you have cable kit specifically for your machine - you will need to make cables. Get connector kit and pin crimper. It does require some special knowledge to do it right, so unless you know what you are doing - get some help with wiring.

You will need to create custom config for your machine, almost certainly. There are plenty of resources and with some patience anybody should be able to do it.

Good luck!

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Here is mentioned some options you have to control the laser: Mainboard Replacement - Diode Laser Wiki

@LsrSal seems you have a good overview as well, I would be pleased if you check that site as well and if you have anything to add, let me know :slight_smile:

That website tech info is reasonable.

Form my personal experience I would reiterate - IMHO, DLC32 is the best choice right now. At the same time - I should not get that LCD, It is cool but nearly useless. For example - many files are not framed properly when any other GRBL software has no problem with it. Once in a wile it hangs on framing. Before framing it does “patrolling” than cannot be turned off, at least I do not see how. This is annoying. I do not like that UI a bit.
Another one: to focus - there are only two options: 5% and 50% power. My machine is blinding bright at 5% and causing fire at 50%. MKS being asked repeatedly to allow to adjust these values from LCD interface. Mute. So I have to pull my PC and send GCode commands to be able to focus safely. This is only LCD UI, The rest is standard FluidNC. I use telnet connection over WiFI and have no problems with it.

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thanks for the information, I think I’ll buy the MKS DLC32 and build the machine, the configuring part scares me because I don’t know what I have to configure to make it work with lightburn on the PC, I hope it’s not too difficult, I will have to look for info to do that, and again thanks for the info and advice

Fear not, not the config. MKS firmware has defaults that will get you going without much effort. You may tweak it as needed later.

I expect bigger challenge for most will be making proper cables. This requires reasonably good understanding of hardware, and crimping pins is kind of art, though not that difficult to master. Wrong pin-out may damage the board.