I can’t even make out the photo, you can upload a couple mB maybe as large as 4mB… If I can’t enlarge it enough to make out anything, it’s not worth much, at least to me.
You can use more than 50% power and run faster. 
You can use the material test to determine what you want for a center value. If the test shows what you want a 50% power, then make your next materials test have values that put that square in the center of your test.
Make sense?
The photo is an inverted pug. I should have chosen large when I sent it to myself.
The material test above showed 50/.5/50/0.025. for the blackest black. I thought that was kind of slow and low but that’s what it showed. Using that setting, it was making the white area of the image black. I bumped it up to 100/1 and I got grey in the white area as shown in the last image.
Why is it burning the white area?
The range of your graphic is the problem. That’s the issue with most laser engraving photos. The material can produce the range of areas that are OK but the face goes outside of it’s range.
Most of this can be changed in Lightburn with image adjust.
Have you removed the original paint from this? it looks a bit burnt in areas, especially some of the text.
I removed the paint, and it looks better but still crap. I did use the adjust image but I’ll go back and try bumping up the settings.
Had to be a Pug.
You’re right—there’s barely any info out there on engraving white ceramic tile with a standard fiber laser, and what you’re running into is expected. The issue is that fiber lasers at 1064nm just don’t interact well with ceramic surfaces unless they’re dark and absorbent.
What’s happening is that the white tile reflects most of your beam. TiO2 doesn’t help here—it actually scatters the beam more with fiber, even though it works for CO2 or diode. Your material test backs that up. Flat black spray might bond on certain materials, but on white tile with a fiber laser, it either scorches or powders off.
That second tile photo—black tile—shows exactly where fiber does shine. Black ceramic absorbs the beam, giving you a clean burn. That’s your best move.
Here’s the honest breakdown:
If you’re set on using tile, stick to black. If this is for something permanent like a memorial, consider using black tile or brushed black metal with backfill. You’ll get way better results with half the frustration.
No trick or secret setting will make white tile consistent on a fiber. You’re doing everything right—the fiber just isn’t built for that job.
I did these on the MOPA, but I would think you could get reasonably close with a q-switch machine.
They are marked.. The LBT100 makes dark lines pretty reliably, but also at a much greater cost along with ease of use.
The TiO2 work well also, it’s just a lot more messy.
Some of these are so close, I write the coating used on the back of the tile so I don’t get them confused.
Wow! Thanks for all that.
the 
and 
LOL…past 7 years been proving people wrong about Lasers
AND giving settings to help
