Here’s some more of the dead horse beating. Norton method.
Finding loads of diode based trials, good results, etc. Not so much for CO2.
Is it doable, is it better/worse/faster, etc ? Settings for starting ?
Running 80W tube on ruida controller here, usually do slate/marble/acrylic. Never tried norton fusing method, although did “spray white tile with black and engrave image in black paint”, but not what i’m after…
Can someone point me to some comprehensive source of norton being done with CO2 lasers ?
It can be done with co2 laser, but it is very tedious to get good results. Here are a few I did with a 60 watt machine several years ago. They were done at 100 mm/s and 70% power. But I waste a few tiles getting the speed and power correct. I have used various paints but results vary. One very promising paint I tried lately is a Valspar color changing paint. It was very black but had some lines in the finished product because the paint was thick. I plan on thing it and try spraying it on but have not done that so far. Also I used a much lower speed and power setting with the ceiling paint.
I’ve got a CO2 laser I can turn down to about 5W output before it goes unstable. I’ve got a 2"FL lens and get about 0.18mm line intervals.
I’m getting nothing here. Glazed white subway tiles, Rustoleum 2X flat self-priming paint. I still tend to blast off the paint or do nothing. Or, punch tiny micro holes through the tile, that happens too.
Any pointers? This is the can I used.
Hi Danny,
I tried this also, and haven’t been successful yet. It looked good, but the black wiped right off. What are your speed and power setting you used? I have the feeling that I am too fast on travel speed for the laser to melt the paint into the ceramic tile.
Charlie
I’m running tests now, and it appears that you need to go way slow with laser barely firing to get titanium to change black and fuse with glaze.
At the moment i’m having success by running at 50mmps with laser firing at about 10% (80w tube).
