Your neighbors will nominate you for Neighbor of the COVID19 Quarantine of the Year Award 
So, if you’ll ignore that I restarted the job about 25% through (GFCI tripped for no reason, never before has that been a problem and these are the good GFCI outlets).
Anyway, it just gave me the opportunity to double the speed up to 6” a sec and increase the power up to 70%.
What more can I say? It works like a champ. I mean, it’s perfect. Just keep in mind, this is my very first stamp I’ve ever made and I can see some obvious corrections I can make, but the test confirms…
Woah… now… wait just a minute. This was just a stinkin’ (and I literally mean - IT STINKS) material test.
I have no level of excitement to master stamp making after smelling the result. Wow.
And now the shop DOES stink, not because of any reason having to do with my lovely and proud fume extraction. No. Because taking the rubber out to wash it down with goo gone, and removing the material to put in with my material… well, there’s just this lingering smell about it.
Storing this material in the garden shed with the air compressor. 
Preview below shows the same shape on 2 layers (overlapped slightly for example). Both set to fill with the same 0.100 Line Interval. The shape on the right has the additional ‘Ramp Length’ setting of 1.00 applied to create the sloped sides shown above.
Here is a simple rectangle shape example of the same.
I’m using that old confusing British Imperial System, and my ramp length maxes out at .3937” which should make a dramatic 10mm ramp. Unfortunately, it does not.
Is it possibly one of those pesky bugs (where I’m actually being limited to .3937 mm)? Suspicion is visually, the number is converted but programmatically its not.
The way the ramp function works seems less than ideal for making stamps. I think it “ramps” the wrong way.
If I look at the cross section of a bit of rubber stamp (black square) and add ramps to it (red triangle) I would expect the ramps to make the object wider at the base and therefor stiffer. ( center object)
In reality it appears to subtract from the top of the item to make the top narrower and now the part that gets inked is way smaller than designed. (bottom object.
???
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It certainly doesn’t.
It works like your middle image - the ‘image’ doesn’t change at all, just the shoulders.
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I wonder if that’s one reason for using stamp rubber - it doesn’t smell that much.
That pad you bought looks really thick. I think my ‘genuine’ stamp rubber is only a few mm thick.
Check this out
This is how it’s supposed to work:
You engrave away the negative area around the stamp, and the sides are sloped. How would you expect it to work?
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Did you see what I observed?
This is a 0.25" (6.25mm) ramp applied to a 20mm box with a 20mm wide “moat” around it.
The two ramps together will make about 12.5mm, leaving another 8mm, and it looks correct to me.
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Yes. That’s what I was expecting. But it did not happen. Hmmm. Does Ramp work with Min / Max Settings? Maybe I did not have proper min power configured.
I am not in any rush to experiment on this natural rubber though, so I’ll play with it some other time (like maybe one day of I ever happen to lose my sense of smell for some reason).
Ramp absolutely works with Min / Max power. It’s effectively generating a grayscale bitmap and running that.
what are your settings
what settings are you using? mine will not cutting away its more like printing rather than cutting away, any advice? im using both grey and orange rubber sheet with a k40
Do you mind sending a sample file? I am having a tough time using the software settings to get the stamps to be crisp and work cleanly. I am just looking for a simple file that shows the power, speed, line interval, Ramp and so on.
I would request those settings from the company that makes your laser - I have no idea what would be appropriate for your wattage, dot size, speed handling, etc, and the length of the ramp would be dependent on the depth of cut, and how narrow the design parts are - you generally want a little more ramp if the design has lots of very thin elements, and the ramp length would be larger if you are cutting deeper.
The laser uses the software settings. I have seen others post their settings on this forum. I have asked this once before but I guess no one wants to share a sample file…
My issue is with small images or text. What I suspect is the letters either are too thin and the letters bend rather than hold the ink and give a clean line. Hoping someone on this forum can advise.
I did play with the ramp but the 2-3 different settings still was not successful. I used 1mm which was way to think, tried .50 but that also was too think. .2 seemed to work but the think lines were not crisp. They had different thickness - some letters were bolder than others. Any help is appretiated.