I can’ believe it’s the tube. It’s barely 3 months old and I’m a hobby not a business
Yes if you have a file for the target that would be great
I have an OMtech, 60 watt machine. Mirrors are 20mm diameter
Dale
Calm down, your tube isn’t dead yet 
But you have to remember that “our” tubes are mostly second grade quality, that’s how it is. And errors and shortcomings of our cheaper machines are seen all the time, also with new machines, unfortunately. This is one of the reasons that machines from the USA and Europe cost at least twice as much.
When I get to the workshop I find and send the centertarget file.
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Just keep in mind that all of these mirrors are only 20mm in one direction. They are held at a 45 deg angle. One of the axes is always shorter.
Yes, I understood that.
Makes sense. Can I upgrade the tube when I need a new one?
Yea, I just found 60 watt tubes made by Paralax for $3400. More than my entire machine! But, they do last 4 years.
I will not buy a new tube until I am 100% sure that the one I have is broken.
I also don’t want to buy a new tube which is as expensive as my whole machine, (in most cases people get another tube if it’s broken during the warranty period). When my nominal 60 Watt tube becomes too weak and that time will come, I want to upgrade to a nominal 80 Watt tube. However, it also requires a new adapted power supply.
You’ve got me looking now. Are there any particular brands of tubes you would recommend when it’s time? I’ve also thought of an upgrade in wattage. But aside from being able to run at lower power, is it really worth the upgrade?
There are advantages and disadvantages to more powerful tubes.
The laser beam can become slightly larger, i.e. if photos are primarily to be engraved, then it is not a good idea to use a more powerful tube. But if you want to cut more, especially thicker materials, then it’s a good idea. However, I think that an 80Watt tube can also be used to engrave nicely.
My machine is 1140 mm long, i.e. an extension must be used for the longer tube, the machine is prepared for it from the factory.
On my wish list is a set consisting of the tube and power supply from Cloudray. Either a TR75 or TR90 from SPT. But as I wrote before - not until necessary.
I am attaching the target file
Centertargets.lbrn (2.8 MB)
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Thank you Bernd!
Sorry, I did it again, here’s the photo. I have 0, further up adjustment is not possible, screw is backed out completely. I got pretty close to center with the left-right, and diagonal. How do I move the far position without screwing up the near?
Dale
ooops it doesn’t look good
First, you have to brew a big cup of coffee, then you should see it as an “Intelectual/technical” challenge, don’t get mad, you know you reach your goal at the end.
You should probably loosen all the screws from your mirror and start by screwing them back so that there are approx. 2mm distance between base and mirror. Now you can start quietly and try to catch your laser beam again.
Sometimes a basic setting of the mirrors goes extremely fast, other times it takes many hours or even days. Try to see the posetive, you learn a lot about your machines in this process and - it will probably succeed at the end.
When it gets too frustrating, you need to pause and watch one or 2 of the many “wise” videos on YT that are about mirror adjustment.
So, I watched the video noted on an earlier posting concerning 2mm spacing; Does this include the diagonal adjustment as well?. And other YouTube videos. I’m just having a tough time understanding how M1 adjustments near is near center, far is left. So if I adjust M1 to the right and do a near pulse again, it will also move right.
Is it important to be dead center on both, or, are we looking to get close and as long as they match in the far and near, I’m OK?
Thank you for the target file. What material do you use to cut these out? Oh, I ordered the Cloudray accessory. $3 plus $22 freight. 
I gave even more…in transportation.
It is meant that you should have enough options to adjust with. In very rare cases, the mirror shell itself is moved.
Mirror M1 should be relatively easy. Try to get it in the center and see if you can catch it afterwards in M2.
To be sure, try to see if the tube holders look reasonable and check if your tube is mounted horizontally to the gantry.
I think you should brush up on how to align a laser…
This is m1 → m2
- Move m2 as close as possible to m1, mark it …
- move m2 as far as possible from m1, mark it …
- Move m1 so the laser marks on top of the close mark (step 1) while at it’s furthest point from m1.
When I do this, I make an adjustment, pulse again, make the adjustment, until they coincide. You should move it back to the close position as this will change, but very little… how much depends on how far away you are from m1. Might have to do this a few times.
I’d suggest this Russ Sadler video on laser alignment…
Might want to watch the video, then do another alignment… we all have been though this…
I do this to check m1 and the beam… Cut the target out of watercolor paper, so it fits in the hole… You should be able to make these with your machine…
On the right is vertical alignment jig.
You can’t tune a radio without a signal, you can’t tune a laser with a bad beam quality…
My suggestion remains, to deal with one piece of the problem at a time, starting with the tube, then each mirror. Not the whole optical chain…
It should be some assemblance of round… this doesn’t appear to be round to my eyes…
I’m with @bernd.dk, I wouldn’t replace the tube if I didn’t need to either … It might be fine, but it’s best to start at the beginning and when you get to the end you can stop. By end, I mean you’ll have found the issue.
OMTech has a 6 month warranty on their tubes… If it is bad, it’ll probably be easier to deal with sooner rather than later.
You never mentioned if you ever made contact with them…?
I hope you bought it from their omtechlaser.com site and not a branded machine from ebay or amazon.
Good luck