I checked the terminal block connections, pulled them out to check if they were stripped then reconnected.
I’ll check resistance, maybe a short.
Thanks for your help.
Dale
As a fix it person, it would be relatively useless trying to fix something if the test button didn’t cause it to lase at full power. Mine does, of course I’ve only done it after I’ve set the internal pot to maximum current for my tube.
I’m surprised it lases at all at 3mA, this is around the startup current, not lasing. 
I’d recommend you not use the test button, if the current isn’t limited it’s not a good idea as you’ll get whatever the lps can supply, probably above the tubes limit.
Thanks Jack. Well they replaced the lps, now, the motherboard and the tube. I’ll check for shorts while I’m waiting for the replacement parts. For a new machine, I’m really disappointed.
Dale
Ah, but think of the free education they packed into that huge box! 
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Thanks Ed, you just made vme chuckle! Have a great Thanksgiving!
Dale
So, I’m beginning to educate myself. I watched a YouTube video by MW Laser. He showed a wiring diagram of the 6 pin terminal block which differs from the way mine is wired. I’ve attached a screenshot of the YouTube diagram and a photo of what I have. You will note that in my machine, the L terminal is jumpered to ground, not as shown on the screenshot.
Comments?
Thanks!
Dale
I think you have mis read or mis interpreted the wiring.
Can you post a link to this video where it shows L grounded with a Ruida controller?
I’ve worked with these a number of years and have had questions answered by MW laser, they seem to be on top of things and I doubt they’d make this kind of error.
In which none of these are grounded.
Using your plug, which we don’t know it’s orientation or which pin is 1
Reading from the bottom up, shows, first pin up with a wire (pin 2) is L and it is not grounded. Next pin up (3) is wp or water protect, it is grounded, which is normal as the Ruida handles any water protection issues. Pin 4 is ground and is wired to wp. Next up is IN, that’s not grounded and should be the pwm in for the lps current control.
It’s always nice to know which pin is which…
As @jkwilborn spotted, it’s the WP input and my machine also had that grounded:
After having the power supply fail hot, as so many of them do, I rewired it to the lid interlock switch in parallel with the controller’s input. At least in principle, the controller will not fire the laser with the lid up and the power supply cannot fire with its WP input active.
Haven’t had it fail since, but I feel slightly better with the WP input doing something useful. On the other paw, it failed by ignoring the L input and my confidence may be misplaced. 
Perhaps I mispoke. I belive the screenshot is correct. It did not show the jumper as mine is wired. I’m not home just now but will clarify my 6 pin conn
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Ok, that is exactly how mine is wired. Thanks for the confirming photo. I’ll let you know how resistance measurements look.
Thanks!
Resistance all measured 0. So, I made a back up through RD works, now just wait for the parts to show up.
Thanks again!
Dale
OK, since I got my new machine on Nov 6th, Omtech has replaced my LPS, Motherboard and 100 watt tube. I’ve replaced all of these components and wrote the backup controller info to the new one. Everything seems to work ok but, when going through the camera alignment process, the engraving is made in mirror image.
I checked the origin in both Lightburn device settings and RD Works and the origin is set to the back left of the machine. Yey, for some reason unknown to me, when I home the laser, it goes to the right rear of the machine.
Comments?
Dale
Whew! and simIlar remarks.
If that’s where the home switches are, then that’s the machine’s home position and where the machine origin in Edit → Device Settings must be set.
Wondering why such things change is a waste of effort and, if nothing else, should encourage you to back up all those settings on a regular basis. 
What about the mirror image engraving from the camera?
Fix your home location in the devices and it’ll probably fix the camera. What you pick for home determines the quadrant that the Ruida operates within.
I don’t know if you’ll have to re-align the camera, I’m not really up on that.
I hate to tell you this but, I’m loosing power again. Initially everything worked fine. But a little while later I tried to cut 14" baltic birch and the tube drew 2 mA. This is crazy!
Dale
I’ve checked the origins in device settings and when I change to rear right as the machine was set up, the work surface as shown on my camera changes to the correct orientation. But, when I update the overlay in camera controls, it flips back to mirrior image. ???
Dale
Aaaaand then re-do the camera dance, because that’s tied in with the original settings, whatever they may have been.
As the song goes, don’t ask why. 
Orientation fixed, thank you.
Power%/mA readings. I ran more tests, this is puzzling. The 3 X 5 version, at speeds of 9mm/sec and higher, the mA meter values are are either equal or +/- 1mA of the values specified in the Omtech manual. At speed less than 9, power of 30%, 2-3mA.
Your thoughts?
That’s below the controllers Start Speed, so it’s throttling the power downward to the Min value:
The typical Start Speed is something like 10 mm/s, but some folks have found it around 20-ish mm/s, which is just crazy talk.
If you gotta run slow, reduce that value in Edit → Machine Settings.