I think David caused a run on’em…
Probably his site… 
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Funny thing: quantity available is increasing! after 5 , one hour ago was 8, now 13!
They playing us!
There is probably shipping contained being unloaded as we speak.
JL2 also went up, from 11 to 18!
Midnight Eastern: 14+19. Still increasing! Fascinating!
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By the way, before y’all flash that firmware, there is not very horrible iPhone app. Not enough for me to keep original firmware, but not that bad for the phone. I found it while experimenting with original firmware, I think through Wainlux website.
Sal,
Where did you get an adaptor.
I just bought one too.
Edit.
Your post 286
Jan,
I guess you are talking about adapter for the laser head.
As stated, I took apart original laser and unsoldered pigtail. Then crimped JST XH.
I did not throw away original laser either. It got common XH header and now can be easily swapped.
Note: original laser turns off at PWM<1% while all other lasers I have are happily lit up down to 0.1%. This is not as huge as CO2’s 10-30%, but still relatively large cut off.
Where can I buy one?
I’m afraid that I’ll get the wiring wrong and blow the thing up.
Also, my soldering skills leave a lot to be desired.
Start with learning to crimp. Not difficult but have to pay attention to fine details.
Here what you need to start, as an example. There are more choices:
Connector kit and crimper.
Do you have a wiring diagram?
I get real nervous when it comes to wiring.
Is there a place that sells them?
I’m not aware of any place where you can get exact cable.
I can only suggest for you to learn to crimp. It will come handy. Nothing difficult about it.
You may try to search Amazon or Ali for this adapter, but i doubt you can find it.
Use my picture to replicate pinout. If not sure - take picture and post here - I will check.
To provide diagram - I have to know exact family used on original laser pigtail. I’m not sure what family it is. Common one is JST XH, so is every connector in JL1 system, excep that laser head.
Anybody knows what p# of this connector is? (the right one on my image in previous post).
What you can do is to buy long XH to XH 3-pin cable and replace original one, but then you will lose X-home as it is combined on controller board with X home. Such cables are available.
Last thing I would do is splicing existing cable, it is ugly but doable. Then all you need is this. You have to be careful with pinout as original wires are all black.
If you put a larger laser module on there, the Y limit will have to be moved to accommodate the larger laser body. If you are unconcerned about homing, then it won’t matter.
I don’t use homing at all.
Jack, What firmware are you on? Did you manage to use my latest? You’ve never commented.
As a fact I did not get s single comment about my firmware with working homing.
Jan, then you might be to get appropriate length cable, JST XH 3-pin on both ends. 3-pin can be easily plugged into 4-pin header.
Measure length carefully. I think you need about 4 feet. It goes through both chains, and you need a slack on both ends.
My LaserTree 20W came with spare cable. It is a larger (smaller gauge) wire but only 2 ft long, not enough to snake it through both chains. Then you need to unhook pins (easy to do with sewing needle) as chain is to small to feed wire with connector.
I’ve seeing some images where people do not bother to route fatter laser wire through chain. (I believe I’ve seeing Jakc’s setup and he also running point to point without chain, not sure though). Not my style but a possibility.
I would advice to learn to crimp. This is not a major investment and not difficult to master but makes life easier.
JL2 for example does not have chains at all, only plastic coil wire organizer, point to point.
I just checked pinout of laser head on JL1: Pin-for-pin 3-pin laser cable will need to be flipped on one end. Ground is in the middle, but power and PWM are on opposite sides. So even if you get straight through cable - one side need to be flipped. Or keys cutoff from the connector, but that would present big risk.
I am running the original you supplied. Have not tried much since I’ve had ‘life’ to deal with…
Have not tried the home function, I’ll have to move my Y switch and I can’t find any ‘t slot nuts’ that fit the JL1 frame, they appear to be 2 or 2.5mm thread…
The board is returned to it’s cabinet, so no access to the programmer header.
I did run a set of more ‘heavy’ wiring through the drag chain. The original wire is also there. I can swap back to the original head.
The board is there for an easy connection to the lps.
The ‘hack’ you saw before was just in the development test stages… I don’t like a rats nest either, which is why it’s back in it’s cabinet.
@JVL The pins in these connectors come out, with a sharp tool to push down the retaining clip… Pins on the board are soldered there…
The one I ordered came today, it’s still in it’s shipping box…
As many/most of you know I bought two of these machines… and I’m now setting up the second one. All is going well… flashing and configuring GRBL, wiring mods for different laser, etc. One thing I’m doing different, however, is adding a newer, thinner, Z-lift to minimize futher reduction of an already small workarea.
This machine really presents a nice big, flat, metal, carriage plate to work with and enough convenient pre-drilled/threaded holes to make it a “snap” to bolt stuff on…
Removing the included laser and red cross-LED module, I used Onshape to create and set up a relatively thin three-piece dovetail slide using the 3-hole “stack” down each side…
The central slide provides ample room for different laser module hole patterns. But I’ve got several Neje laser modules that came with a high quality metal clamping mechanism so I just added holes to mount one…
Setting the laser on it’s feet a simple clamp holds things quite securely for testing…
Noting the two large holes at top, I envisioned a bar with threaded bolt through it to clamp the slide in place. I found a printed C-clamp and a knurled thumbscrew out on Printables… and then used TinkerCad to cut, stretch, combine, and add the bits I needed to make a suitable clamp mechanism…
I’ll probably need to lengthen the central slide to insure I have enough “reach” to get down to the work surface but otherwise all this seems very workable. I usually set all my lasers to focus at 50mm below the bottom edge of the laser housing, so using a 50mm gauge block I can easily set the focus for varying material thickness…
I’ll put it out on Printables when I get the time and energy.
Wow, I’m tuckered… I think it’s time for my nap 
– David
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I put “Another Z-lift mechanism for $79 Cenoz JL1 laser engraver from Amazon” on Printables for those interested. – David
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Thanks… snagged it off Printables…
Thanks for the time and efforts along with making it available to all of us.
Take care
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Nothing “ground-breaking”, here. Just a longer central slide on my latest Z-lift mechanism to allow for a longer “reach”… also has been added to Printables.
– David
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If anyone in the US has an JL1 board they are not using(ie maybe have replaced with another controller) I’d be willing to take it off your hands for the cost of shipping. PM me if interested.
This is so I could test grblHal builds on it. I’d like to leave my stock JL1 as is because eventually we’ll be trying to figure out the encoding and offsets so that a grblHAL firmware could bin installed with the stock update.exe updater instead of having to open, connect to ST-Link header and upload over the existing bootloader.