$79 Cenoz laser engraver on Amazon... any good?

Ah, I was just looking for a repo of grbl which was currently active. I guess there’s a big difference between “active” dev of grbl code and “active” porting efforts. Standard grbl hasn’t been updated in 3 years( 2019 v1.1h).

At least by going the grblHAL route the dev there pointed me to the magic AF mode command to get PWM onto PB0…

This depends what you are doing. I do not see it as PIA at all.
USB powering CH340. I think this is great as it does not drop USB driver when JL1 power is cycled.

When using STLink - board/MCU gets power from STLink interface, this is very convenient.
If we manage to de-scramble/re-scramble firmware then flashing will happened in normal operational setup.

The only minimally inconvenient setup is for erasing factory boot loader and loading straight firmware over serial. But this is the exact scenario we are trying to avoid.

At this time, if you have STLink, why are you trying to connect over serial?

Question: In Cube Prog, bottom right status window, last line “boot loader”, what does it say with your board? Both my boards it is grayed out and I was not able to connect to them over serial, only STLink works.

Average Joe isn’t going to handle all the wires and requirements required to get DFU or ST-Link working to upload firmware. That is what I mean by PIA after all, I’m not doing this just for my own usage but trying to help the community of users who could benefit from an open grbl firmware being installed.

Average Joe needs to get ST-Link hardware, wire up the output( v+, clk, dio, gnd ), get a jumper wire on V+( must be 3.3V) and momentarily connect it with a needle/pin on the side of a tiny resistor(Boot0), power up the ST-Link interface and remove the Boot0 connection. Not lots of JL1 owners are going to know what most of that even means let alone be able to connect up to a tiny SMD resistor end without shorting 3.3V to who knows what.

But only for Windows users and yes the scramble methods need to be figured out.

I stated it’s not easy as in simple so therefore avg Joe can’t do it it. Had they put a Boot0 jumper or even 2 blank header connections that would have been easier for Joe SixPack. And had the USB connection powered up the STM it would have made it even easier as a 2nd power supply wouldn’t be needed.

Mine is not grayed out but it only shows “–”.

1 Like

@LsrSal So I used 3.3V/gnd from my STLink and jumpered a poker/pin to 3.3V and powered up the JL1 in this mode. It should be DFU mode and since I have the USB chip powered before I did this I could connect the STMCubeProgrammer in UART mode.

It tried to communicate and read but said it was read protected and I needed to check the disable read protection if I wanted to read. We know that doing that will errase the flash memory so I did not so that.

But, it did seem to recognize the DFU bootloader which is probably at a lower level than the flash bootloader. Here was my output from the ST32CubeProgrammer:

So uploading without the STLink is possible of you have a 3.3V supply available. I don’t recommend powering up via the 12V because that’d power motors and all too.

Doug,
This is another difference: I was not able to connect over serial to STM32 factory boot loader on either of my x2 JL1. I doubt this is my setup because I have some Blue Pills that can connect to Cube over serial and some that don’t. I attribute that to variety of STM32 lots available in China, got to be the same supply chain as chips for Blue Pill. ST factory boot loader is probably one of factory options. Same reason it is specifically reported in Cube Prog. (I see no info that factory boot loader can be added to chips that do not have it. There are number of other serial boot loaders available, but they are sit at the beginning of the user flash and not at the system memory boot, just like Wainlux boot loader.

But ability to flash over UART I think is rather of academic interest. I would think that most will be using Windows with factory Wainlux upgrade app, or be able to use STLink.

Hey! JL2 is only $65 on Amazon right now! This is lowest price ever of any complete laser engraver. For some reason I have a feeling that you will grab it. (I have x3 JL1, one still boxed). My wife will kill me if I get 4th one.

Fun stuff: JL1 microscopic engraving, 1mm tall serial number on birch. I use single line font at 1500mm/min - still minimal trajectory deviation.

Did you put the STM32CubeProgrammer in UART mode instead of DFU mode? I’m using the GUI version and it has 3 operating modes, ST-Link, DFU and UART. I was able to get an initial connection when I used UART mode, not DFU mode. Even though I was connecting over the USB interface it really was like using a builtin FTDI serial connection to Tx/Rx.

I have read most of this meandering free for all and quite honestly I think you folks should connect on another forum or something.

I am not interested in all the various and sundry digits you folks have indulged in and I am certain I am not the only one.

This is not intended to be testy! Three hundred forty five posts on relatively the same thing all the time. Maybe you should set-up a forum of your own for nothing but the ins and outs of owning this varied little laser that is mostly famous for it’s Sale Price.

I know, I can look at other posts. I am interested in things involving Lightburn and associated information.

BTW: If your slightly snide remark about most of the members of this forum is truly how you feel about folks who don’t have the education you have, perhaps you are the one who should look elsewhere.

Ferg

The idea is to find the one with the least amount of hassle for a full grbl experience. STLink does require the purchase of a dongle and wiring it up to a 4pin header. I don’t solder a header on the board and just jam it sideways to keep connection while programming. But since the onboard USB interface is wired to the STM32’s tx/rs signals… it should just be a matter of locating a good 3.3V bus connection and jumpering it to R19 and power up to get it into DFU mode and Bob’s your uncle.

What are you looking here for? Did you purchase one of these and you’re looking for what exactly?

that is crazy! Did you do it with the 1/32 microstepping hack or with the stock 1/16 microstepping?

From the “Community Laser Talk” about heading…

“An area where community members can discuss “all things laser” - talk about machines, controllers, share tips and tricks, and what not.
This is not the category for official LightBurn Support questions.”

Seems to me this is exactly where this thread should be. Just my $.02.

3 Likes

Yes, this is the one with 1/32. But even if it is half of that - JL1 stock 1/16 still gets 80uStep per mm. I think result will be comparable.

1 Like

Ferg,
Talk here is to help the the rest of the folks to get max ability of their JL1. There is not a hint of disrespect, I spent plenty of time helping others to solve their problem realizing that I may know a tad more. I’m not bragging, I’m serving. As a fact I’m all setup with my JL1. What I’m doing here is Public Service, helping with getting their JL1 to work with best software, plus some intellectual fun.

Your perception and resulting remarks are distorted and misguided. You should learn patience and tolerance.
There are forum owner (Oz?) and other moderators who is very rational, I would leave policing of this forum to them.

1 Like

There are a few shows on TV that I don’t like.
Sooo, I simply don’t turn them on.

Keep up the good work Sal.
A lot of the stuff is way over my head, but I still enjoy reading it.

2 Likes

While this thread is long, it apparently is still useful and relevant IMO… and I have no objection to the discussion(s) going on here. We’re still talking about our $79 machine and its JL1 controller… along with Grbl, Lightburn, and assorted lasers and techniques we are using with it. Like @JVL, a lot of the stuff is way over my head, but I still enjoy reading it. Thanks to all who have, and are, contributing and learning.

– David

2 Likes

Sal,
I wasn’t posting to you, sorry. As usual I should have quoted my reference.
I have no quarrel with you. I think you have done a masterful job of explaining this application.
My problem is with someone posting with all the abbreviations or whatever you wish to call them when I am sure that without looking them up I have no idea what they are referring to. You explain very well. I guess those of us that do not understand the lingo, I have to reference “Dos” programming, should just pass over the Engineering.

To those of you annoyed by my post… Sorry I am not as invigorated.

Ferg

Ferg

Ok,I made a mistake.
I bought this module for my Cenoz laser thinking it would be an upgrade. ($29.99 plus shipping)
I thought it would be plug and play, but its not.
I don’t know anything about wiring and don’t understand why there is what looks like a control board mounted to it.
So I need to get rid of it.
If someone wants to zelle me $25.00, I will ship it to you. (USA only)



Jan,

Does it have matching mounting holes pattern? If YES then you will not get more plug-n-play than that. Connector on JL1 laser is not common or standard. This one is common/standard. You need to address this adapter issue on JL1, or it will be the same with any other laser you get.

I understand you may not crimp, but there got to be somebody able to solder. You may buy pigtail on Amazon and splice into present laser cable. This would be the cheapest and simplest solution. Then you will be setup for most upgrade options.

What exactly the p#/specs of what you are thinking of to offload? (you may rethink it).

I think this is the one I’ve posted earlier when it was on sale.

Hi Sal.
Yes it is the one that you posted about earlier so I can only assume that the holes line up.
Part of my problem is that I don’t understand why there is what appears to be a circuit board attached to the top of the module.
And again, I’m just not comfortable with the wiring portion.