Advice on Smoke and Marks on Laser Cutting

Hi Folks.
Just a quick question.
I have a large 130w 1300x900 laser. I generally put large sheets of pine ply in to work on. I’d love to work with Maple etc but in Australia Pine is all there is unless I pay mega-dollers.

It does have Honeycomb on top of slats, and the smoke extraction is in the space under the honeycomb. I have an aircompressor as well and run the work at about 20psi

The word Sage Due to the power of the laser I run this at speed 500 and 1%. I have tried Air On and Off etc

Does anyone have any addtional idea’s.
I am open to putting fans above the work to give laminar flow.. Putting fans underneath to force ventilate the honeycomb. I can see that the air under the hood is not smoke filled and pretty clear.

When I am doing say 60 of these at ones that is a lot of post prep and sanding.

Many many thanks.
Dave


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I’m not convinced that 130Watt is the ideal machine for the job, it’s a bit like using a very large brush to paint a line drawing with…
But, if you have the opportunity to try to increase/optimize the extraction and reduce your compressed air so that it just keeps the lens clean. The air in/out ratio is also quite important. If I open the lid about 2 cm I have a certain negative pressure in the “cabin”. It works best here.

NB. on the top side there “shouldn’t” be that much condensed wood gas at all, is your lens and focus completely perfect? ​​If you have problems with honeycomb like some here have, you can lift your plates up a little so possible reflections don’t hit the underside of your items.

I’ve experimented with these parts here, they work (spread all over) perfectly, but I lose my physical stop/align edges and that makes placement a little more difficult, but can be achieved with a laser pointer by running up and down the edges until the plates are perfectly aligned. Furthermore, I don’t have nearly the problems you show, I manage just fine with a little alcohol on a cloth on the parts that are a little dirty.

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With my previous home made laser which was a large format my biggest issue was that at 80w it could not effectively cut at the boundaries of my work, so effectively I could only use half a bed.
So when I brought a new laser I got a 130w. In hind sight I should have gotten a lower beam.
I have added a Diode Laser onto the gantry that works with the Ruida controller so I can use that for really fine lines..

As for Focus and line width - yes.. Both lasers are adjusted to ensure the finest cut width I can get.

Many thanks for your advice.

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I recall several folks using a clear sealer prior to engraving to prevent smoke staining on a finished product.

Edit: added some links

@MikeyH uses a specific Varathane product here

@Ferg uses a sanding sealer but shared that 40 psi at the nozzle and reworking the bed were major contributors.

Starting around Post #34, this thread offers other pretreatment options.

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Many thanks John..
Though I buy my ply in 1200x800mm sheets and use them as such. Normally I fully load up a sheet with jobs and just let it cut.

I run my rastering at speed 500 and power of 1% so i really churn out the work. If I can sole the smoke issue it will really help.

Normally a 1200x900 sheet costs me $19.. But I can buy a 2400x1200 ($38) and cut into 3 . which works out $12.67 a sheet. Quite a Savings.

Again Thanks
Dave

It sounds a lot like exterior glued plywood, if that’s what it is then I would expect double the smoke generation when cutting but virtually no difference when engraving.

Its not construction ply, its just that most people purchase pre cut

My first approach would be to put the name SAGE on a different layer from the rest.

Decrease LPI

Increase speed and overscan for the name layer

My little 10w laser diode is nowhere near your 130w, so what works for me may not apply to you.

The last resort would be to set the name layer as an image and go to lighter colored image layer and grayscale (or stuki) to reduce the power.

I use painters tape. Just burn through it. Prevents the smoke stain and splatter.

That’s an ok price for laser-suitable plywood.

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This is what I get directly out of my machine with 60Watt on 5mm BB plywood. I showed it to the customer and asked if it needs to be sanded/cleaned, he asked if this rustic look could not be highlighted a little more… :face_with_spiral_eyes:

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This looks like the nozzle air is way too high. It blows the smoke across the wood before it has a chance to float up and be carried away with the air currents. I get the same thing if I forget to reduce the air flow (one machine) or turn off Air Assist (the other machine).

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This was mentioned twice. Is this a CO2 laser?

Only an RF laser can be turned down so low. Most won’t lase below about 10%.

:grinning_cat:

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Maybe it is a diode? Can’t tell from what is in the bio.

That is what I put into lightburn.. and it IS a CO2.
So maybe the controller is firing at a defaulr lowest level.

Dave

Many thanks.
I will work on decreasing the minimum airflow to keep the lens clean..
And set up fans that will blow/extract away from the work ASAP

Again thanks
Dave.

It is the tube that has a lower limit. I have read numbers between 8% to 12%, up to 15% for 100w CO2 machines. Diodes can go as low as 0.1% to 0.25% in a lot of cases.

The op stated it’s a 130W laser. I know of no led that powerful and it’s a huge bed size, so I eliminated a visible light laser.

:grinning_cat:

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Unfortunately I do not have a laser power meter..
But I enter 1% into Lightburn, the Ruida say 1%, and the tube is firing at its lowest.

Wether something is interpreting 1% and giving it an internal power level I do not know.

Dave.

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