Can't get my K40 to work on Lightburn

HI, I’m new to Lightburn and have just purchsed a K40 laser. But try as I might Lightburn dose not reconize my machine. Could someone please point me in the right dierection. If it helps here is what’s on the plate that came with the machine.
Firmware VER 2018Model 6C6879-M2-9
It will load inkscape & K40 Whisperer but I had to change the driver. I am wondering if I might have to change the driver (not me) for Lightburn.
Any help guys would be very much appreciated.
cheers Col


A stock K40 is not supported by lightburn. If you want lightburn support, you need to upgrade your controller.

Here is a user with a related question:

See a list of supported devices here:

We currently support most Ruida, Trocen, TopWisdom, and GCode based controllers. Supported GCode controllers,include Grbl, Smoothieware, Grbl-LPC, and Marlin. Supported Ruida controllers include the RDC6442G/S, RDC6445G, RDC6332G, RDLC-320A, and R5-DSP. Supported Trocen controllers include the AWC708C, AWC608, and TL-3120. More controllers will be added soon, so if you don’t see yours listed, send us a message - maybe we’re already working on it!

Hi JJ, Thank you for replying so quickly, I am going to look into it.
Regards Col

Hi Colin,
Switching the controller is not that difficult, I bought a “MiniGerbil” from Awesometech, it is a plug and play solution for a reasonable price. The new controller, Lightburn and a small fan with plastic housing for the nozzle were my main and best investments.

Hi Bernd, Your set up reads a lot like mine as I have a A3 Elksmaker and a 3D printer which I tinker around with. The K40 is my latest toy and I am into the learning curve with some frustrations that seem to come with the territory. I am currently running K40 whisperer and inkscape. Have you used these before you turned to Lightburn. I’m thinking if you did that if you did maybe that is why you changed to Lightburn. I have read that a blower on the nozzle makes a big difference and will be looking at that as well as the water pump. It’s a lot to take in all at once for me so will have to crawl for a while. Regards Col

Hi Colin,
I’ve run T2Laser before Lightburn and still think it’s a very fine and universal program, but, Lightburn is definitely the best solution (for my needs). Much of this statement is due to the amazing development Lightburn has received, the super fast and noble service from Oz and Co. and of course this forum here.
Don’t get frustrated, take it as a challenge. If you are a little technically interested you will go through a nice development that ends with beautiful and useful items you have made and the quiet desire or dream of a bigger machine :wink:

The air nozzle or compressed air is absolutely necessary, not only for cutting and engraving, but also for keeping the optical lens clean.
I also changed the water pump with a slightly better and larger aquarium pump, here it is important to always have control over the flow, a sensor / auto switch is the safest. If you run your laser without water circulation, the laser tube is almost dead right away.
What surprises me again and again is how important it is to keep the optics clean and focused. Here you can’t cheat yourself. But you know that for sure from your “diode time”.

If you have any specific questions about the K40 settings that I use, please feel free to contact me here.

I too started with a K40.
So many people are quick to knock these machines. I hve found that they are sinned against more than they sin.
A controller upgrade is a HUGE benefit and turns them into very capable machines not least that they can run lightburn (which I am in the early stages of testing.)
air assist = essential…decent cooling also.
I used my K40 for 5 years got through a few tubes… all but one my fault…Bit the bullet and added a chiller…still managed to ffry a tube…then I got a water flow switch £3 no more fried tubes!!!

Sadly it is now sitting on its side having been furloughed for a big bed machine.


Thanks for the advise John, I have taken notice and I am looking at the cooling situation today before I blow a tube.

Hi Bernd, Firstly have I got your name right? I had a brother Bernard and I feel like I’m missing a few letters when I write Bernd.
I’m up for the challenge and have had a lot of them with my 3D printer, so I know what I’m in for. And I’m looking forward to what lies ahead in regard to what I can do with this machine. I am retired now and have been for ten years. My trade is a letterpress/offset printer which has helped me with a number of things related to layout, fonts and machines.
Thank you again for your advise I will change the controller and fire up LightBurn as in particular I like the fact it’s one programme for both artwork and the laser controls. I hooked my old Elksmaker and it works with LightBurn so it makes sense for me to have both machines working on the same programme.
I am looking into printing my own nozzle on the 3D machine and checking out the small compresses today. All the best for now.

Hi Col
Where in the world are you?
I have a brand new Trocen ACW708c lite for sale. It was bought to build a big bed machine but i ended up buying a built machine…

also if you are going the upgrade route you will need stepper drivers (which I think I bought also will need to check my box) and possibly a tube power supply (dependant on tbe power supply that came with the K40 though I believe most of the newer ones already have a suitable supply)
If you post a photo of the power supply Or everything under the lift up bit where the electronics are I can let you know… (i dont have a power supply)

Hi John, I’m just round the corner in Australia, not that far really.
I have only just bought the K40 and ordered a new controller for it. I am hoping that will keep me out of trouble for awhile.
It sounds like you are really into it being able to build your own machine.
I’m guessing you are in the states right?
Regards Col

Hi Colin,
“Bernd” is correct but not so much used, our American and Australian friends have always had a problem with that name and call me Bernard or Barny, you have to call me whatever you want, just don’t call me up early in the morning; -)

You have the right strategy with your 2 machines and it is similar to mine and many others’ development. I built a nice closed box for my Aleksmaker this time and was also very happy to learn how to fine tune the machine and I did many fine things, mostly engravings. Now it is just hidden away because I have no space in my little workshop, it’s a shame.
I’ve been reasonably lucky with my K40, in that way the basic substance was ok, I only changed the controller and the famous bed, shorted the suction and installed a cable duct for air and power for the cross laser. The actual electrical installation and power supply were in good working order from the factory even the 2 sockets on the back. I forgot about the supplied extractor engine with my K40. It was under all criticism and directly dangerous to electric shock or fire. I think it comes from another factory that does nothing but extractions, but just very badly.
Now I read that you are in Australia, with your temperature you will find a cooling system that can handle the task otherwise it will not work. I live in cold Denmark and after half an hour laser operation I have to replace my cooling elements in my 20 liter bucket, with a new one. (I keep the temperature below 23 degrees Celsius, preferably below 20 degrees)

It’s fine with a 3D printer now you can print all the nozzles you need and many other nice things for your K40. I mean I pay approx. 20 A $ for a 3D nozzle.

Colin, in which direction in Australia are you living?

Hi Col
Noo I am long way from States…UK…
I kinda got into it been at it for so long necessity has driven me .
Have to say I get great pleasure from making things from scratch…I have 3D printers but my mind works in
2D…I have made some pretty cool things with 3mm acrylic/ply and card body filler.

Beware re ply it HAS to be laser ply (the stuff you get at DIY shop will NOT cut (or the stuff here doesn’t)…I hit 1.5mm ply with max power and run 5 cuts…nada… nope …just an ever thickening black line…the glue seems to absorb the beam)

I can confirm that. There are incredibly huge differences in plywood, you have to find the right one for your purposes.

Bernd is correct re cooling…before I bought the chiler I used to keep a load of old plastic milk containers in the freezer and two aquarium thermometers …one in the cooling water and one in the stream of the returning water I had to keep checking the thermometers if it got over about 23-24 I would sling in another ice pack. The return water pipe I had out of the main water (like a waterfall)and running over the sensor of one of the thermometers. so I could hear the water and knew it was flowing…worked well untill you play music LOL…pop…oops was that another tube???..

Use k40 whisper untill you upgrade your board

Hi Bernd, I live near the most easterly point (Byron Bay) in Australia and it is most of the time quite warm. We enter winter tomorrow and the temperature today was around 24C. I have today been learning how to cut 3mm acrylic and managed to warm my cooling water to luke warm, so have decided to let it cool down. Got it to cut though on full power with two passes. I really like playing around with this machine and am enjoying myself with what it can do. Fitted a strip of lead lights, a blower and the next step will be to replace the sliding contraption with a aluminium honeycomb base. Had a electrician friend check out the electrics and he found a wire hanging loose of the amp meter which he fixed thank goodness. The fan extractor on my machine is different from all that I have seen on the net that hang out the back. Mine is inside the machine and appears to do a reasonable job. All the best for now, Col

Hi John, you are indeed a long way from the states and I used to live in the UK a long time ago (60yrs) at Worthing in Sussex. All my relatives live in Hull and I am hoping to visit them again some time in the future if this bloody Covid 19 finally dies down. I enjoy playing around with my 3D printer and have got to the stage finally that I am now making useful things instead of trinkets. Have not cut ply yet but I have engraved it and was impressed with the result. Will take heed of what you and Bernd have written about what ply to use. Thanks for that advise, I won’t even bother to cut what I have here. Stay well, Col

Hi Bob, using K40 whisperer at the moment but waiting for the new controller to arrive so that I can try Lightburn which from what I can see looks to be a better programme. Regards Col

Hi Col,
years ago we were so privileged to be able to drive around Australia for a whole year. Now I can better position you geographically. In addition to your beautiful country, we were most happy to find so many friendly and helpful new friends, some of whom we are still in contact with and have even been down for a round birthday. We have only the very best memories of your big and beautiful country and hoped that time has not changed too much.
I am happy to read that your laser learning proces going forward.
Which controller did you choose? Mine came from Australia, Awesometech and I am very happy with it.
Take care of you

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