You can’t ‘drive’ the signal any harder than to hard with it to VCC Yes, there’s some type of circuit that changes depending on the PWM. Once you know the control to it is OK, you are in ‘no user serviceable parts’ zone.
These are parts, like tires, they only have a certain useful life then you need to replace them. Same with CO2 lasers, cringe when a tube fails…
When you buy from China it’s always a ‘crap shoot’ as I tell others. Find the best most trusting deal then you pays your money and takes your chances. It could be worst, the whole thing could have gone up in flames
I hear that. You never want it to be the most expensive part…but sometimes it is
Well, that’s relative. I have a NEJE 450nm 30w (7watt actual output, maybe ) from Ali Express. I think I paid $99 for a little while back that has served me well. It looks like it’s going for about $79 now. Comes with the laser head, test/power board, and mount. It’ll cut 3mm birch plywood at 100mm/min at 3-4 passes. I’ve also cut 10mm solid wood with 3 passes.
I have one of those. Mine doesn’t make much over three watts and that’s giving it lots of credit. I don’t have a watt meter for an led laser, only the one for my CO2. But I doubt it’s output is much better than about 10%, that would go along with most estimated output of solid state lasers that I can find. Estimates seem to 10 to 15%.
I have looked for dot size, but have not found anything that really tells me a lot. If you know, let me know
Awesome info! I really appreciate it! I am going to look in to that laser. It sounds exactly like what I am looking for. I don’t use it to cut as I have a router mounted to my cnc, but I would like to be able to burn with it at a decent speed. The one I have now is controlled with pwm. I see this is ttl. Are these basically the same and compatible?
I’m still a little confused. The pwm coming from my controller fluctuates from 0-5v to adjust the power. Is this the same with ttl? I don’t know what ttl is.
These controllers use PWM, which is TTL logic levels.
How do you know you controller fluctuates from 0 to 5 v, do you have a scope?
If you are using a voltmeter a PWM will appear that way as it’s reading the RMS value of the signal, which directly relates to duty cycle or PWM. Many of these will work with an analog 0 to 5v control voltage, but most controllers don’t have the option.
So it’s telling you it will work.
When it comes to this class of laser head, they only have three basic connections.
Ground, Power and the controlling PWM signal at TTL levels.
All of these should work for you, assuming you can mount it on your machine
No, I do not have a scope. I was checking with volt meter.
When I was checking the voltage from the controller to the current laser I have on the pwm wire, I was receiving 0-5v. Also, when I connected the lasers pwm wire directly to 5v, I assumed this was max power. Should I have been connecting the pwm wire directly to 12v instead to receive max power to the laser?
TTL is 5v or less. You did it correctly and supports what we’ve tried to say, is that your diode is The ‘silicone valley of the sky’, bury the remains.
Also, the voltmeters don’t react instantly. If it did you couldn’t read it. So if the PWM is changing the meter will read RMS value. Which in simple terms is an average of the voltage. As the PWM duty cycle increases, the ‘average’ or RMS value will increase.
I think it’s pretty clear the only failing part in the line is the diode
Ok, thanks. So, if you were purchasing one of the lasers that was linked above. would you get the NEJE80W or the 79.99 one? This is basically for small projects and hobby purposes, but I would like a decent one… I know this is an open ended question but…
Do I want an apple or an orange. Model or $80? I’m sure that 80 model is great, twice the power probably, at least twice the input. So how much was the 80 watt model? That would be a better comparison. I cringed when I saw it and didn’t even check the price knowing it’s going to be pricey.
It’s also newer technology for most hobby users. It’s dual diodes with a beam combiner.
The best part about SS lasers is that they can run at 1% power, not so for CO2, at least the kind that’s around here. Mine won’t lase until almost 9% current, meaning I can’t do anything below that power wise.
You’re going to have to compare one against the other and how much power do you really need, based on what you want to do. Along with how much do you want to spend. If the lower wattage head will do what you want why not save the money. The advantage to higher power is when cutting you don’t need to make as many passes. What value is that to you? Enough to cough up the difference in monies?
The bonus is when you’re up again, you can do a post mortem on the body of the victim. Maybe you can fix it
@georgia088 You showed in your grbl settings that you have $30 set to 1000. You need to make sure that Smax in LB is set to the same setting. Go to edit, device settings. You will see a field for SMax. Make sure that it set to 1000.
I’m not disagreeing with other here, but since you said that your laser was working before you changed you PC and re-installed LB, I don’t see how you laser could be the problem.
Yes, there’s some type of circuit that changes depending on the PWM. Once you know the control to it is OK, you are in ‘no user serviceable parts’ zone.
) from Ali Express. I think I paid $99 for a little while back that has served me well. It looks like it’s going for about $79 now. Comes with the laser head, test/power board, and mount. It’ll cut 3mm birch plywood at 100mm/min at 3-4 passes. I’ve also cut 10mm solid wood with 3 passes.
