I hope someone here can verify/clarify this for me. I read someplace (cant find it now) about engraving performance with a high wattage tube. Something about the high watt tube (130w) does not fire “as well” or “at all” at lower % as say a lower watt (80w) tube would. I read it on the internet so its got to be true
Higher wattage tubes have higher firing threshold - it takes more power to get the plasma to ionize. My 40w will fire at 2% power, but my 100w needs about 11%. And the wider tubes have a wider beam, so you get a larger dot size, which means larger kerf and less detailed engravings.
What brand of tube (length/diameter) and power supply are you using?
A glass tube laser will also have a rising response after use at high power; you may be able to get lower power ignition after you have run the tube for a few minutes at a high power setting.
“wider” You mean the 80mm diameter of tube?
The Reci W2 80w & Reci W6 130w are both 80mm, would dot/kerf be the same for them?
I haven’t purchased anything yet. I am still waiting on quotes so I have time for research, maybe too much time. I have no idea what I plan to do with the machine so lets assume 50/50 cutting and engraving.
(To anyone reading this… Do your own research, I am no pro here, learning as I go)
I am still not sure what I want. My intention was to get a 100w as I felt it was the middle of the road. So that is what I searched for. On ebay it seems like they exaggerate/contradict themselves a bit. A lot of them state “Reci W2 100w” which is peak power (shortens tube life). If you look up the specs online (lightobject) for a Reci “W2” you will find:
RECI W2 80W/90W CO2 Sealed Laser Tube * Power: 80W/90W (105W peak) * Triggering Voltage: 24KV * Operating Voltage: 18KV * Current: 26mA (28mA max) * Length: 1200mm/47" * Diameter: 80mm/3.15"
But a W4 is a bit different…
RECI W4 100W CO2 Sealed Laser Tube * Power: 100W (110W peak) * Triggering Voltage: 28KV * Operating Voltage: 22KV * Current: 26~28mA (Recommned 26mA) * Length: 1400mm/56" * Diameter: 80mm/3.15"
Not true - it’s more about understanding the power curve, the nozzle distance, lens quality and what size. I use a 175 watt CO2 tube everyday. I cut mainly wood and plexi. I engrave on everything. Point size of the more powerful tubes can be mitigated by the lens and distance to work surface. There is no magic formula - you have to test, test, test and find the sweet spots. Look at our work and details if you think a higher watt tube is a problem.
Would love to see some samples of your work
With your 175w, do you have any examples of photo gray-scale/halftone work? The standard picture of your dog will do
You may need to think about the axis speeds you can achieve without losing steps as well. If you can move fast enough then the high power tubes will be fine for engraving, but if you are restricted because of the mechanics/ drive system you might not be able to get the power down low enough for fine engraving. In my case I have a home made 50W CO2 with drive belts and a Mana controller. I am limited to about 166mm/s (10000mm/min) before the lines get a bit wobbly or I risk loosing steps on very small moves. At this speed I can set the laser at 40% power and this also gives some margin for the dynamic power control to reduce the power at the end of the line without dropping below the firing threshold.
Just something else for you to research:grinning:
Fabulous work Dean!
I have a 100W laser and can’t engrave Trotec TroLase Lights because even when the laser is barely firing (8% power) and at highest speed (400mm/s) the laser burns the top layer instead of ablating, causing it to peel back from the base, and also leaves a lot of char.
It engraves thicker TroLase beautifully though.
I was considering using less efficient moly mirrors to dial the power back a tad – 10% is the sweet spot for engraving on my machine. But my machine has a dual-laser controller so am also toying with the idea of adding a 40W tube just for engraving.