I’m having the same issue. Every time I come to work on a project it acts like it doesn’t want to connect.
Via Ethernet? With a Ruida controller?
Running USB with Ruida.
The issue in this thread is “No device found via Ethernet”, so you’re not having the same issue, but something else.
Are you running more than one copy of LightBurn? Are you using Windows or a Mac? Is this a new issue that’s just started happening, or have you never been able to connect to your laser?
Wow…Sorry, would you prefer I start a new thread? Didn’t mean to hijack.
One copy of Lightburn on laptop with Windows 10. New issue the last few times I’ve used it. I don’t use it every day. Probably going on a month or so. I just mess around with settings or reopen Lightburn and/or disconnect USB then reconnect and it eventually connects. Sometimes toggling Auto/COM3 too.
If you launch LightBurn first, then power the laser, it won’t immediately connect. If you do the laser first, then LightBurn, it should.
You can also right-click the ‘Devices’ button to make it retry the connection, and you’ll see ‘Found RDC6442G’ or similar at the bottom of the main window when it finds your laser. Give that a try and see if that improves things for you.
Thanks. I’ll try the latter option. Sometimes I walk away and leave Lightburn up until next time I come back to it but I turn the machine off. This could be part of the issue, I’m sure. Thanks for your support.
Oz, sorry to jump in here again but I wasn’t sure i should start a new convo. I’m still not having much luck. I shut down the laser and closed Lightburn. Started laser, then Lightburn. Still wouldn’t connect. I’ve unplugged the USB from the laser and the laptop and reconnected. No luck. I shut it all down again and started Lightburn first, then the laser. No luck. I right click on Devices and nothing happens. I even added a new device. Still not connected. Wondering if it’s the USB but once I get connected I don’t have any issues with disconnecting.
Check the USB cable and make sure you are working with a known good cable. Have you tried using a different port? Do you hear a “ding” from the OS when you plug the laser in? This would signify the operating system “sees” a device has been plugged in.
I’m using the cable that came with the machine. I can confirm the feedback dings when unplugging and plugging back in. I haven’t tried a different port but will try. After I sent my last message, I unplugged from the laser and again plugged back in and it finally connected. Not sure what the deal is.
Windows?
Versions other than 10 were terrible at managing serial port assignment - you need to periodically go through and delete the old com ports and start again.
My Dad builds devices that connect via USB for data control/collection and until he went to 10, was always having trouble as it seemed every time Windows connected, it would create a new com port.
When you do a couple of hundred devices a week, it can get pain-filled.
Yes Windows 10.
10 is much better at managing allocation of com to port.
I’ve fixed this before - give me ten to find my notes.
Some things to do in the meantime:
Upgrade your motherboard/laptop’s mainboard chipset stack - usually comes packaged as a single executable to do all the controllers on the mainboard.
Upgrade your laser controller USB chipset driver to the latest manufacturer’s version.
Use a USB cable with a ‘choke’ (round object, often shrink-wrapped, placed along the cable, usually within a few cm of the plug)
Turn off power management of your USB ports - unless you connect to anything else USB for extended periods on battery, it will only make a 2-3% difference to your consumption.
This covers it - quicker than I can type it.
I can hear the connection ding the PC makes when I connect and disconnect the cable. But I’ll definitely give this a shot. I appreciate it!
That indicates the OS has recognised the device, not that it’s set up optimally.
There are so many places that have a driver that works, but the manufacturer of the usb chipset (probably FTDI) is the place to go.
If Windows finds one with a higher version number, it assumes it’s correct and doesn’t do anything. You need to delete all copes from your machine, so it doesn’t pick it up, and start with the Windows default.
Often it’s just quicker to delete all USB devices in the device tree and find them again.
Do you know how to read the USB ID string and look it up on the web? http://the-sz.com/products/usbid/
Okay I’ll try and work through doing this. Thanks again.
Follow the instructions on the link - they did a good job of snapshotting each step.
Once you’ve learned how to do that, you will find it straightforward. One thing about Windows, getting it to refresh drivers is a doddle, once you know how.
If you’re a bit overwhelmed, give me more info - make/model of computer, make/model of controller, and I’ll dig out the relevant files.
Okay cool. Very much appreciated.
One question, though - why aren’t you using Ethernet? You only need a cable, not a hub.