Came with this water pump. Looks like a small pond pump. It does stick to the tank
I built a table for it and opening large enough for a chiller. I have a 5202 that fits under it. I can wheel the whole mess around.
What you use for cooling is a lot dependent on your ambient temperatures. Some of these (lower cost) are no more than a radiator with a fan in it. This is ok if where it’s running is cool enough. I live in the SW desert. We have many days over 110 deg, so that would ‘heat’ the tube. The 5200 series are basically a refrigeration unit. I’ve run it above 105 and it keeps the tube at it’s set temperature of 25 C. It’s been too hot for me to operate and it’s working fine.
This is the meter installation
Hooking this up is a 2 minute task and the meter is less than $8. If you can’t afford this…
Cutting a hole in your new machine is a bit of a hinky feeling. I figured where it needed to be. Designed the cutout in LIghtburn, cut it out and made sure the meter fit correctly. Wanted it 15mm above the control pad, so added 15mm to the bottom.
I run the cut again with the only the drill points I wish to use. Then use it as a template. Here’s a picture.
The K40 is a good machine, but lacking in many areas, as it’s price should indicate. The most used item on my machine is the Z axis. Every job must be focused (there are exceptions.) So the distance is important. It’s easy to twist the Z axis on my machine, but that’s missing on the K40. You have to shim your material. The controllers supplied with many of these machines are usually repaced. I don’t think Lightburn supports the type in a K40. I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong.
All things you need to check on. Hope this helps. I tossed the honeycomb bed for a mild steel one. You should watch Russ’ video on honeycomb beds.
Take care good luck. I’m sure you’ll have fun with whatever you decide fits the bill.