Thanks for the detailed information, a good read
Thought you might like to see the main window to my workshop, took about 1.5 hours to do.
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Awesome work. Very nice detail. Larger designs are a little easier on micro factures running into each other and eliminating detail offere by negative space in lines
If the glass doesnāt āleakā. Itās poured at 2000 degrees, how could there be any possibility of moisture being āinā the glass?
Thatās a few degrees above the boiling pointā¦
Very niceā¦ How big is it?
Do you mind sharing the specifics, like dpi and speedsā¦?
The moisture in the air present and interacting during the engraving process not during the pouring of the 2000 degree liquid glass being released. I sense a grammar differential between our posts. Sorry if it confused you.
Cheers 
Sas
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Cannot remember specifics on this job, but would be similar to what I posted above.
is 800mm x 800mm in size
150dpi
250 or 300 mm/s
probably 12 or 15% power (100w tube)
Iāve done some glass engraving tests where I put a sheet of white printer paper and the glass is engraved on the back, the beam goes through the glass and burns the paper, leaving the engraving on the glass. In the photo, from the bottom to the top, the roughness decreases, the ones marked with S255 / F2000 and S255 / F1500 are almost smooth, you can barely see a relief by touch, I didnāt get any result like this engraving on the top of the glass with a coating of some ink. Unfortunately I havenāt registered the DPI.
Looks like the āblackā background is burnt on it. Iād expect just the shattered glass from the heat, not a burnt looking image.
Can you tell what it is? Does it wash off?
The black background as long as the paper is not removed, after it is removed and cleaned, it looks like frosted glass. In the first image of the previous post I am projecting light from above (like these acrylic lamps).
Thatās more like what I was expectingā¦
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Noob question here. When burning a vector fill, the 300 DPI, 80% grayscale, and Jarvis dithering tips are not relevant correct?
Correct. With a vector, itās just ādrawing linesāā¦
If you add fill, you will be able to adjust the dpi of the fill and how itās laid down on the material.
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Trying to learn how to engrave on glass and everyoneās feedback on the subject has been great. Your experiment peaked my interest. When you say āthrough the glass and burns the papersā, are you saying it literally burned through the glass until it reached the paper? or does the beam affect the paper while engraving because the glass is transparent and the beam also reaches the paper? What effect does this create on the glass? Iām not too science, so if you could put it in laymans terms, itād be appreciated.
The first time I tried to engrave on glass I didnāt know that the 450nm laser could not affect it and I went for a test, I put a white sheet of paper under it, I donāt even remember why, I think so as not to burn the wood that remains of support to the machine, the laser passes through the glass and burns the paper, the heat generated in this burning creates microfractures in the glass in a very subtle way, as in the photos I postedā¦ at the highest speeds tested (2000mm/min) almost no you can feel it in the touchā¦
In the second photo of this post it is after finishing the firing, before taking the glass off the paper and cleaning itā¦ the result can be seen in the other photos, with and without light projection.
Interesting. Im trying to engrave on pint shaped drinking glases and shot glasses. I have an Aeon Mira 7, 60W, 2mm lens, and Im using a rotary attachment. Any suggestions? would a similar application of paper help? Iād just try it, but materials are getting a bit pricey (running through a lot of glasses lol). Also, do you engrave using an image, or as a vector fill layer?
The paper leaves the recording behind the glass, I think for glasses itās ideally on the outsideā¦ when I want to record on the surface, I use permanent black CD ink, but I think any ink will do, Tempera for example, then the recording turns white, I saw people using white ink (the same one used to engrave Norton tiles, with TiO2) and the engraving turns black.
EDIT: When you refer to Recording, is that another term for engraving? And the Ink you were talking aboutā¦ I thought you were using an analogy, but are you saying Ink is another option in place of soap and paper?
The post did confuse me a bit, which is probably more to do with me. But for clarification, I have a drinking glass and want to engrave something on it. Can you use your paper method with this scenario? What benefit would it serve? Would I put the paper (wet?) over/on top of the glass, or behind/inside of it.
Your results look beautiful and Im very interested in understanding your method. Please accept my apologies for any offense. Definitely not intended.
Donāt worry, Iām not offended, lol.
You would have to put the dry paper on the inside, but the recording would be on the inside of the cup, which I believe is not desirable. You can paint the area you want to record with black ink (I use those permanent ink pens to write on a CD surface), the recording will be outside the cup. Watch this video I make in a bottle:
Here the engraving behind the glass, with paper:
Feel free to ask. 
Ooooh, Oki doki. Makes a lot of sense. Do you know if the same principals apply for CO2?
Iāve never worked with CO2, but I think it burns directly, without any additives.
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Your laser frequency is absorbed by glass, so you donāt need any kind of āindirectā engraving method that the LED laser requires.
You should be able to engrave on a shot glass, but itās small and how well it will work depends on the kind of rotary you have and how well you have configured your controller for the rotary.
There are also ācoatingsā that bond by the lasers generated heat of the material. I use Laser Bond 100 but there are others out there that are similar.
Using Laser bond 100
Iāve done the back of mirrors and lots of cups/mugs, but donāt have any pictures of glass that Iāve done.
Good luck