It appears to have three wires… Like my flow meter does. It does have a Black (hard to see), Red and Yellow connector. The black and red are for power…yellow for signal, pulses/liter.
This does not work as a coolant switch will only give you flow rate if you wire it up to a computer to read/compute the pulses.
It happened very quickly. It wasn’t smoke — it was more the smell that got noticed. As I was looking at the cabinet to see where it was coming from - there was a popping sound (like when something shorts out) and the controller panel went out as well as the only lights that were on down there (1 green in #2 and 1 red on #4). But #4 and #2 were very hot to the touch.after it popped.
Would these need replacing? If so - I imagine they have to come from China. Or has some U.S. company been smart enough to stock these in the states? How expensive could this get (a guesstimate). And I’m sure I can’t them super fast because of customs.
Does the person helping you know how to use a voltmeter? The basic problem would have been easily diagnosed with a voltmeter…
The link is to a flow meter not a pressure switch.
This is the video from OMTech… They do not sell this sensor. I hunted around on the Internet for a similar looking one, but came up empty.
This guy actually built a functional one from Amazon parts, I think… he’s using a lower cost machine also…
The chiller will offer much more protection to your machine than this which only covers pressure…
The reason mine is out, is that I wire the chillers error output to the Ruida. This works for flow, and both high and low temperatures. You can learn to use the basic operation of a voltmeter and more of this will become clear… It isn’t rocket science…
The sensor you purchase has it’s black/red for -/+ 24V as power input. Since the Ruida is has pull ups to hold the voltage at 24V, I doubt that your switching the wires had any negative effect.
What ever you do the switch you have isn’t going to work…
One is the Ruida, 4, and the other is the 24V supply, 2…
You have to look at what kind of voltage and current that supply is and purchase one with the same or greater voltage/current rating. Look at amazon or ebay… Don’t go cheap, some of these Chinese power supplies have a floating ground… meaning it can make the chassis hot.
You can also unplug the Ruida from all connections and check the power supply for the proper output voltage.
I’d assume the Ruida is OK and the power supply is faulty… mainly because the supply is low cost and the Ruida is a few hundred dollars.
We are here if you need us… sing out if you have questions…
Thank you very much. Right now the laser is dead - nothing turns on to do any readings. I really need a tech to come. This is all Greek to me. I don’t even know how somebody can even help from this point until the laser turns on. What is needed to get it to even turn on? A new power supply? Do you have any suggestions on how to find someone in the Phoenix area to help me? This isn’t like a Universal or Epilog laser where there are people to call. I feel so stuck.
I don’t have a tech guy that’s why I’m putting out the SOS for any tech guy to help. If you mean the guy yesterday – he is a friend who is handy but just knows very very basic electronics (if that). I would pay for your time and mileage to see if you could help me. I’m waiting for China to text me tonight with their idea of what to do from here. In the meantime I slid a mirror in and was able to get a photo of he power supply sticker. I can’t make out the mfg. but is this enough to find an equal part. Any suggestions where? I came across Jameco. But getting this PS – will my laser turn on? This looks scary to me and I would not attempt this at all.
Took ten or twenty minutes to find this one on Amazon, but it’s power output isn’t what we need. It provides plenty of 5V current, but is an amp shy with the 24V output… these are labeled above the GND terminals…
Sounds like I may have to get it from Monport? Unless they can find one here in the states.I have asked richfaraone who is in this forum if he could help with a source. Not sure if he’ll answer but praying.
You didn’t say if you would be interested in some extra money to come here and troubleshoot the machine. Do you know anybody in AZ who could help if you are unable?
I’d try and ask them if you need 6A at 24V… They probably have a boatload of these and they put the same basic supply in all of them… A lot lower cost than separate supplies for the various machines. If their biggest machine only used 6A, maybe the smaller ones can get along with less…?
The only real way to tell is add up all the things that use 24V for a total.
Make sure there isn’t inline fuse, line one of the 110V connections on the chassis.
This one from Amazon has a built in fuse… this one is pretty clear, but I’ve seen them inline and they are difficult to find.
Have to ask the spouse if she will drive me down there…
If possible your tech guy could check the basic input power to the machine and power supplies. Ensure it’s actually getting power.
My machine has two of those. Are you saying I should change the fuses? I have a text into China about the power supply. I have 2 people I’m emailing to see if they know of any tech. I think ---- This laser is much easier to understand for any person with electronic knowledge than my old GCC (that had a mother board and a LOT of parts). I’ll be back with whatever China answers. Thank you again Jack
I have a 900x1200 dual head Chinese laser using the CW5200 cooler. The 5200 cools 2 tubes. When one of my water protecter switches went bad, I turned off water protection alarm and stop in the Ruida software. The CW coolers beep if there is not enough pressure. if the cooler is running you can squeeze the coolant tube to see if the beep alarm is working. I am still using the same tubes for 9 years…
I’d suggest you take a few minutes and connect the 5202 to the Ruida. It will stop the Ruida if there is a failure, allowing you to continue when corrected.
The way you have it wired, it’s guaranteed lost job. If you forget to turn on the chiller, you have no warning.
Wired to the controller it covers all the bases…
These are pretty smart machines… I might not be like you, I get focused on my work and don’t/can’t remember the simple stuff… much easier to wire it up like it was designed and have it watch itself instead of me watching both the machine and the job.
This is a different question. In your laser do you have a power supply (in a metallic cage with holes)? I’m trying to find this power supply which is difficult because it’s 6A and everything is 5A. Thank you
China answered and they said it is that power supply but seem to be having trouble finding which gives me a great feeling UGH. They said it must be 6A. But no one has told me what would cause that to heat up (as well as the controller) and “pop” The water was installed, laser turned on, controller still said SYSTEM RESETTING" which went away after a minute and my last job appeared. But no lights in the cabinet and the laser was dead - no motors driving the belt and homing. As we kept turning off and on it seemed to have built up heat and popped. The only lights on in the cabinet was the controller #15 and the green light in the 6A PS. My laser PS is fine. I fear putting in a new PS and it will overheat and pop again unless we know what caused it and make sure that is corrected before installing.MAybe I should get 2 PSupplys?
Hi Debbie, I am not very good at electronics, but if if you think there is a water switch problem and the software will allow you to temporarily bypass the switch and that make it work, then that would be an easy and cheap way of troubleshooting the issue. In your original post you mentioned a water chiller error. I do have the directions to read the controller data, but the water protection switches are probably listed as on or off in the read. Someone else could tell you how to change the parameters and bypass that switch for testing purposes.
