Y -axis home: I just jammed 2-pin female plug into 3-pin jack, not bad.
Motors need no modification.
Need just one adapter and you are done. These are all JST XH connectors.
Be careful with manual, Laser pinout is messed up. It was already covered in March and topic is already closed. Connector installed backwards, power still on the right. Here it is again:
While studying manufacturer GIT files - for some reason there appeared to be two DLC32 GITs, one from Makerbase and another from Macrobase, very suspicious.
Makerbase has docs matching pinout for board rev2.1
Macrobase has latest firmware, but only one wiring doc that does not match rev2.1.
Make sure you check both. It appeared to me that Makerbase is the right one.
As requested:
DLC32 w 3_5LCD.zip.txt (856.4 KB)
Use 9pc. x M2.5 heat set threaded inserts. If have choice - pick shorter one, ~3mm long. I use 5mm then had to grind down.
There is interference between two lower parts, perimeter rim/fence. This is intended to keep print cleaner. When fitting first time - cut it with utility or Exacto knife. It is obvious and simple.
I’ve printed bottom and top part without any support, flat to the glass, obviously. Middle part was printed with support, otherwise front overhang corners are too messy. With support - need minor cleanup and looks good.
Connectors and card holes printed without support, almost no cleanup needed.
Assembly order: mount board first in the bottom part, then middle part to it, one front screw and two on the back to external surface (JL1 front right leg), then just snap the top with LCD on it.
I’ve tested up to 2A motors and $2=255 meaning motors always ON, with 4988 and 2209 drivers with stock stick-on heat sinks - does not need any additional cooling, all drivers are barely warm to the touch, no need to use included fan.
Dave, when you done - share the image.
Be nice to have just a ‘lid’ instead of a screen … 
Jack,
I got extra DLC32 without screen, from Ali for only $15 (unbelievable!). Yes, I will make another design with board mounted more like present JL1, vertical, to save space. I do not want to just slap lid instead of LCD on present enclose because it would become a bouncy jumping board.
Have some patience and I will make dedicated LCD-less design for DCL32, when I have time, maybe in a few weeks.
My opinion is that LCD here gain very little if anything at all over headless DLC. Most can be done remotely over web interface. That LCD interface often not able to frame work properly, though still work fine most of the time. I’m also not able to use that 5% focusing power, have to use remote interface ti set lesser power for focusing. I have edited ESP32 page to use 0.5% for focusing (original laser cuts off below 1%!)
MakerBase not in hurry to fix anything. I guess, if headless, can use straight FluidNC firmware, but not with LCD, I think. I believe Fluid NC GitHub even has config file for it. I did not try it yet.
(Though DLC32 with 2209 drivers is definitely a better performing board than JL1 - I do like JL1 board and my JL1 frame now has it.)
I did too, it never showed up and they refused to credit me.
Hope you have better luck.
This one was delivered from Ali to my door in only two weeks!
My previous order was the board + LCD from Amazon, cost double (30+30), still shipped from China direct, I’ve paid $60 for the pair and took about the same two weeks. I guess I’m a tiny bit more comfortable to keep Amazon responsible, just in case, but is it worth double the price?
Ali is a crapshoot. Sometimes great and sometime bleahgh… But so far most of my orders delivered fine. Though last one, month later still “consolidating” in China. I guess the lesson is: use only one vendor at the time and no next order till current order clears Chinese customs.
If planning to use 2209 stepper drivers - pretty much any stock heat sink is much taller and will not fit under the cover. JL1 motors do not need much current and with properly set currents, 2209 are barely warm even with small heat-sink. My advice, in case 2209 drivers are used, to reap stock heat sink and apply small one, that usually used on 4988 boards.
Jack,
Still interested?
Here is my JL1 specific design.
Yes … 
Jack,
Word of warning: I did not try to print it yet, but it is based on my prior verified geometries. I expect it should be fine.
I print pretty much exclusively PETG. I hate curling and bowing of ABS and stench of PLA.
Latches are pretty fine detailed. For good closure I usually print <0.1mm layers, also helps to fuse layers to avoid any de-lamination. You may get away with thicker layers, but may need to do some finishing/cleanup of latches.
My intention to print with no support at all.
Like to see how it will came out on different printer.
Have you got the board yet?
I’ve made like x3 orders with Maker Base on Ali - so far all arrived without any complications.
I’ll give it a shot on my printer and let you know how it turns out…
I got a board from Amazon, never did get the one from Ali express… 
