You can open the “lbrn2” file with a text Editor to see the settings.
My settings in Editor is 125k
When you edit the machine setting to 4000khz, you must close und open LB again to take effect.
Your settings looks good, I’m looking forward to your results 
Set via the device settings, it isn’t held in the actual device like machine setting are on a dsp or grbl. It’s carried as part of the device information. I understand it’s uploaded to the device before code is executed… Don’t know the exact procedure they use.
If you change the device type and then change back it will re-load the information.
Whichever is most simple for you…
Lightburn was smart to use XML files for all data files. They are plain old text files or flat files.
I have an lisp extension for EMACS that allows editing/formatting of XML files.
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I closed, opened new instance, reopened file.
Ill try re-downloading.
Working today, might have time later. I have LB 1.5.xx on the laser in the shop.
This is very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you for reporting this. I’m seeking clarification from the galvo laser team.
I’m also very interested in the exact model number and frequency information provided by the manufacturer. I’m chasing a similar problem, related to settings-drift where settings seem to move out of range for some users.
If you’re so inclined, please provide a picture of the sticker on the back of the machine with the model number so I can report, follow and document this behavior more precisely.
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Perfect.
Frequency and pulse length seem to be within spec.
Looking forward to a response from the Galvo team.
I’m also waiting for @DaniilGorid to respond with the software suggested in post #7
This might be [ir]relevant and was asked before with no answer from anyone that I remember…
The manual for mine, a 60W JPT M7 MOPA, has a strange chart of ranges…
You can see the effect of q-pulse/frequency … however it seems to indicate this may be the steps of q-pulse… compare the specification value differences between the 30 and 60W – even though they appear to be the same model MOPA.
If possible, please run an additional material test in the same material;
Lock in the Speed, Max Power, Line Interval, and this time vary the Frequency and Q-Pulse length:
Does the 8ns/125KHz square give the same result?
I took the power down to 40, (I have 60W) and deleted the line layer. Thicker SS it looks like.
Original file except lowered Power to 35, no line (Faint one on right)
On the shiny side, 40 fill 40 line
LB 1.05.04.
tail in the middle 37/37
So it seems like your settings work good with adjusted power. ran a material test same results.
So I guess you could try a little less power, the power difference is not much between dark and light. Material test can be skewed by the power density of the squares vs the power density of something like a gator pattern. Maybe it is just a couple of percent.
Reason for the additional material test is that I am wondering if the first material test was somehow incorrect? I don’t have a MOPA, but Lasertips.org puts green for a 30W JPT MOPA at around 13ns/350kHz/30% power &1500mm/s speed, which is a lot less intense than the parameters of your first material test?
Stainless is pretty funny stuff, thin vs thick, 300 vs 400, #4 vs mirror, and every laser is a little different. My go to green for brushed stainless is completly different then Laser tips or gummi2000, a little slow.
But works great for me.
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Ahh ok I see what you mean - really different settings!
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JPTLaser20180731.exe.txt (104,5 КБ)
please use RS232-usb and COM <4
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If you’ve never done this before, it would be nice to have a few words on connecting it up and it’s use… I’m in this boat… plus I have to steel the spouses Windows box to use it…
Thanks for posting the software… 
I have this for signals… note the db25 isn’t mentioned
There is no wiring information on that usb → db25… Is it only availalbe through them?
Do you have a link?
I guess there’s no chance you figure out how it’s wired?
Thanks
if I understood correctly, the RS232 cable needs to be connected to JPT Laser.
It plugs into the source… makes better sense…
Any idea where I can get the cable or a schematic?