Also today I had a good day at the workshop with my new laser machine.
I made a gauge for focus setting and some material tests in wood and acrylic.
It is interesting to see that at a certain speed and a corresponding power, the acrylic vapors ignite on the underside, quite violently.
I’ve seen it on plywood too, but not so clearly. It is the mixing ratio between gas and oxygen from the air that makes it combustible. A little change in one of the factors or much more air supply can prevent this process. Lots of air does not really fit the cutting process of acrylic, therefore I adjust the speed and power instead.
(5mm/s, 55%-14mA)
material thickness 21mm with a 60 (55) Watt CO2 laser tube and with the original optics from the factory, it’s incredible.
… continues
Well, then it was four o’clock for today
… what did we learn in the workshop today?
Mostly that I need to construct things a little more assembly friendly.
My house for the ammeter is otherwise good enough, but getting the nuts in place at the assembly was a struggle, but I can only blame myself!
My new ammeter varies a bit from those built into the power supply itself, but not consistently, so I actually stick more with the old-fashioned analog meter.
Beyond that, there seems to be no doubt what my heart beats for when it comes to laser software.
… I am not affected by alcohol today either … but when I choose an image that has the correct orientation on my computer, it still turns when uploaded to the forum … strange …
The digital one just gives you what it ‘sampled’ during that instant in time. If you catch it when it’s on, it will probably be correct, but it’s crap shoot. You can set it for 50% and hold the pulse down, that will give you a good reading for both meters at 50% power. If you’re curious.
I made a couple of alignment templates for drill placement on the case.
I was able to work a bit with the inner parts of my new exhaust system. The filter box is an experiment with two pre-filters and a homemade activated carbon filter. Unfortunately, I forgot to make pictures of this part. But it is only a frame with a thin net on it, some spacing pieces and then 2 kg activated carbon, approx. Ø2x5mm, bought in a business that deals with water purification for fish farms and the like. I was afraid that I have packed the material too tightly but first tests have defiantly given good results. Now I’m annoyed that I made it as a temporary experiment, because if it works then I have to build a new filter housing because I have not made it as recyclable.
I have no pressure difference meter but can measure the current, if it rises at the same speeds then it’s time to look for a replacement. The whole filter system and fan are mounted in a large box, I will remember to take pictures when I get this far.
Does anyone know a source with more detailed explanation of the settings in the Ruida controller? It is the ventor and the standard user settings that I would like to go into depth with. I imagine informatics in the style of the Gerbil address explanations that I have enjoyed. The manual itself, which I have downloaded from the web, mentions many features but does not explain its operation.
Here is the exterior “installation” of my exhaust system.
My self-built activated carbon filter subjectively takes 85% of the bad smell from especially acrylic and PP, PE and ABS, but it does not absorb it completely. In total there are approx. 3.5m Ø110 mm sewer pipe with some angle bends. I only need a little sound insulation and a little electrical work so I’m done. I am very happy with this solution. In order for the extractor to work best, I need to open the lid a little, or remove the “put through panel” in the front.
Pictures from the workshop’s exhaust sewer pipe installation will come later today if Santa does not get in the way
A small project from today because I want to keep the machine clean and be able to find small items again. In the beginning, it was meant to be made of 0.5mm black iron sheet, but why make it more complicated as needed? This solution is completely removable in a few minutes, made of 3mm MDF and is approx. 110 mm high, measured from the bottom. Should anyone be interested in the details then I would like to share.
That’s a great idea! After I make the new exhaust and filter I was going to make something like this, but also with an angle that would catch the dust/bits so I can vacuum or dump it easily.
That was the first thing I thought when I just finished the task.
Now I just want to see how it goes, a small stop edge and a couple of the many discs I have as leftovers are quickly retrofitted.
I have used a 30 mA ammeter on both my machines (40 and 60 Watt) A 100 Watt tube goes up to 40 mA or similar, so a 50mA is probably the right ammeter.
The installation is very easy, it is the black cable to the tube that is looped through the ammeter. The ammeter also shows what is in and out. The extension you need to make with your black cable must be made carefully, in the right square (same as the original) and preferably soldered and crimped insulation.
You are welcome and remember, this is only a laser machine not rocket science.
The most “critical” and feared part is (in my opinion) drilling holes in the electrical cabinet. A small metal chip in the power supply or in one of the other electrical components can be catastrophic. Spend plenty of time covering all your electronics, use tape, cardboard, cloths … and carefully pick up all the metal chips afterwards. If you have a compressor, blow out the cabinet (gently) with dry compressed air at the very end.
Good work pleasure.
I think I’ll work like you for a start. I will make an outdoor unit in which to place the ammeter. I won’t drill holes in the machine. I approach your picture. I hope it’s not a problem.
