So I wanted to start this thread to help everyone who has the NEJE Master 2s Plus work together to figure out the best possible settings to get the most out of their laser.
If you just use the out-of-box settings, the unit is incredibly slow in Lightburn. Also, I haven’t found definitive documentation for the 30W and 40W lasers and how best to focus them (or simply what height to put them off the material you are working on). I am also aware of the homing problem and would love to see a well-documented fix for this for this model. All this and more are what I am hoping we can share together.
To start us off, I found that if you increase the following two settings under Machine Settings, then Output Settings, that you can help speed the laser while it is running.
X Acceleration (mm/sec^2) ($120)
Y Acceleration (mm/sec^2) ($121)
Hi, I bought 3moth ago and I use it almost every day for my work. The start was hard, I had to figure out all the settings to work well on MAC OSX 10.13.6. Mainly the homing setup was problematic, and also I needed to setup speed acceleration for the axis and so on…so here is that worked for me…
The values between ** show that I changed from the factory one.
So the homing working and the objects, texts are not mirrored and fast.
Hope its helps.
My biggest problems have been power and relationship between what the screen shows and actual location of the laser. I work with the laser facing me with its controller side on the right and the shorter 255mm axis facing me. I’ve tried almost every combination of settings and I cannot get it to work and have move settings, a landscape layout and origin/home settings that work right. Once I get it all set to work, it either homes to the wrong end, moved directions are wrong, etc (machine home position and origin are both 0, origin is closest to controller side, layout looks good, but homing will lock it out as it tries to go out of range.) ive tried matching versus screen settings, device and machine controls including switching pin directions and home pin directions. I’ve tried all grbl commands, tried using negative numbers, I need a setup that works BAD or I’m going to have to go with something else. Uggg I love Lightburn already though.
Figured this is the “place” to post this. I have the Max version. I recently received the separate 40 watt module package. I then replaced the 30 watt module with the 40 watt one and replaced the power supply with the one provided in the 40 watt package. Was just a simple unplug the 30 and plug in the 40 and use the new power supply. So far working like a charm. This does make the total cost practically double. Was trying to get a 40 watt version on Amazon but no luck. Later after I got the 30 watt machine I started looking for other sources. Found the 40 watt package on Banggood. Only had it a week but I’m quite pleased with the results.
Well just did quick test on 5 mm plywood. 200 mm min at 70%, 2 passes. Did a quick one on stencil blank material, coated with black underglaze but you could probably use a black acrylic paint. 900 mm min at 100 % 1 pass. That was just a simple square. Tried 3mm clear acrylic with black paint. Didn’t really work at 100% even. I could probably get a better way of doing air assist instead of just having a small fan blowing at it. Addendum: For stencils if you are going for very simple shapes it’s a maybe. For shapes that are more complex like letters and such it doesn’t deliver enough power to make clean cuts. The material starts to melt, that is the part that is cut from the sheet melts and the smaller it is the more deformed it is. I believe it is because the material is so thin. So if you are thinking of making stencils I would recommend going with a CO2 laser.
At the moment I am only cutting plywood. 5mm at 200mm/min, 70% & 2 passes sounds impressive. Maybe I have to shell out the US$ 300 for the 40W laser head (fortunately for my wallet it is sold out currently). Thanks for the test!
Can you provide information on what kind of 5mm plywood you are using. Wood type and number of layers, please. A few pictures also provide interesting information.
Well it’s commerical name is Sandeply. It is advertised as 5.2(1/4 inch) thick. It is composed of 3 layers. Was bought at Home Depot hardware and lumber store. I am in Pennsylvania USA. I’m posting an on edge shot of it.
I wouldn’t call this a trick as much as I would call it something interesting to explore further. I have a AnyPhoton Photon S resin printer. Since I notice the wave length of the light source and that of the NEJE laser I thought I would experiment with the resin. I placed a relatively modest amount of resin on a “tongue depresser” size wood stick and proceeded to"print" a series of wingdings on it at 25 pt size and at 3% power .05 line spacing on the fill and about 8 passes. Took close to 3+ hours to complete. Here’s a photo of the end result.
Hi all, I’m having my Neje for less then a week and I’m impressed by it.
Not sure what is common homing issue, I realised it get crazy sometimes when you left lightburn working in background power off your Neje and then power it on. However if all start together - neje, lightburn it works really well.
So far I managed to cut 3mm Birch Plywood and got really smooth cut.
Settings for this 190mm/min 95% power and air assist.
Same settings works for 2mm MDF
As air assist I’m using 30l/minute water pond pump.
When buying it I was afraid it will be too loud but it actually is much quieter than my 3d printer.
With air assist and black dryboard marker it cut through provided green transparent acrylics, and cut line is quite OK.
Best cutting results I’m getting when object is lifted about 7mm from laser base, and laser module is lifted to maximum. Anything higher than 7mm and I can’t get super sharp cutting line and on same settings power to speed it need 5 rounds to cut through 3mm plywood.
I’ve tried settings advertised by Neje - laser module 5mm to cutting surface but I don’t like how it looks, it’s definitely too wide and too burned.
I’ve seen some videos online where people try to cut wood, lying on other pice of wood. It is a mistake i have learned it when was working with CO2 lasers ages ago. You need some heat exchange and wood on wood does not help. Best would be honeycomb work surface about £70). However for now I’m working on pastry cooling rack 7mm high (£4.5 on ebay) and I’m really happy with results.
OK, after few more days with my NEJE l, I’m more than impressed with this little laser.
10mm pine wood on 5 passes, 150mm per minute, 90%
It’s not something I want to do on regular basis but it was fun test
